The introduction of this men’s couture only further ratchets up the degree of luxury Piccioli and Chiuri have made it their business to sell. But the twist at their Valentino is that with each new turn of the gilded screw, the look of luxe gets less and less. The collection has never looked looser. Suits have mostly melted into pajamas; trousers into jeans; shirt-and-tie into sweatshirt-and-scarf. Perfect for Alpes Resort vacations and… casual daywear!
Men’s
Men’s: Pastels. Gucci AW14
That was really elegant collection. To death. Frida Gianini for Gucci created a very simple collection for AW14 using pastel and black colours. Coats. Wool sweaters. Black trousers. Suits. And that’s it. After seeing so much colour during the fashion week, this collection feels a bit sad and too formal. Fashion used to be fun at Gucci…
Men’s: Obsession / Sex. Calvin Klein AW14
Obsession, Escape and Eternity were the keywords that guided the AW14 menswear collection of Calvin Klein. And this is nothing else than the names of famous CK fragrances for men… Now all the labels try to support their legacy as much as possible, so no wonder that this is a very good step for the New York based house. The collection was based on brown, olive and black colours; it was full of warm jackets, sporty sweatshirts and super cool wool shirts worn with matchy gloves. The collection got few looks I adore, but nothing behind it…
Men’s: Mid-70’s. Prada AW14
Located in an underground garage or passage in the centre of Milan, the AW14 Menswear show of Prada just took place. Miuccia Prada as always did a good job. But, she didn’t out-stand herself unfortunately. The collection was combined with women’s Pre-Fall’14 pieces that really supported menswear. The man clothes were too “not” neat- 70’s inspired oversized trousers, unitarian vests, shubby fur coats and horrible colours of brown were present here. But women part was amazing! Bright coloured leather dresses? Totally fine. Sexy femme fatale blouses worn with fur scarves? Indeed. In other words, Miuccia tried something new (well, not literally new but more… forgotten?) in men fashion, but for me it didn’t go well. But for women (the models- Amanda Murphy, Jamie Bochert… gosh!) she created new timeless classics that will need to have place in every woman’s classy wardrobe.
Men’s: Cowboy. Versace AW14
Versace for AW14 was very rodeo. It was like if Gianni appeared in the middle of Texas. Donatella Versace made one of these collection that aren’t too efforless- but as she said- for free men. Well, I didn’t see any free men wearing red leather trousers, crocodile driving gloves and VERSACE embroidered jacket for a while… The interesting fact was that the models wore those Gianni shirts on brown turtlenecks- that looked good. But the rest… is for you to digest.
Design & Culture by Ed 