When I heard of that fantastical collaboration I was like no way. But it is all true. Rick Owens for Adidas or other side back. And the effect is mind blowing! It’s like the Rick Owens classical sneakers with high top, but in a more “fat” edition. Kept in a typical Ricky colour palette, these masterpieces that were shown during the Paris Fashion Week for men for sure got a much, much higher price tag than normal Adidas sneakers… But they look so good! 
I was a little bit disappointed with the new Kenzo collection for men. The entrance was superb- a fruit mosaic on the floor, market stalls with Kenzo fresh juices and so on- in other words colours. But that was just the opposite to the clothes that were presented in a huge hall with tribunes around. Models walked on a circular platform very close to the front row, and then went up the stairs on the highest “stage” of this huge chamber, standing, and presenting the cool jackets, bags and many more. It’s all sounds great, but the collection unfortunately wasn’t so good.
The first look gave first impression- boring elegant sportswear. In blue colours. Then it was all grey with some hind of confetti print. Then red phase with black elements on the tshirts. It’s all boring, but cool and kind if nice. There were few cool looks, but last season was much better. Unfortunately, that wasn’t this what I was expecting. Not youthful and full of colourful, but MATURE TO DEATH. And now we won’t wear the Kenzo Tigers but Kenzo Tsunamis.
Nobody does menswear as good as Givenchy. Precisely, nobody does menswear as good as RICCARDO TISCI. The Italian designer of luxurious, high street fashion label Givenchy just did something in his collection, that have just hit me. Few seasons, Givenchy was a bit, I would say, same to the previous ones. Still, it was cool, but there was a lack of something fresh, a bit couture and strange. But, thanks god, definitely within this collection of menswear that changes- there is now a new crash of the prints, colours and everything else!
The SS14 for men was presented in a Parisian garage parking- it felt industrial and I (still, viewing on life stream) thought it will be minimalistic. But I was mistaken! The first look was like an arrow sent from an Amazonian local warrior- colourful jacket, full of prints of something similar to airplanes, palms, ethnic figures and stripes- like a crash of airplane in a jungle- as you see most models have some hind of paintings on their faces, that may be connected to new Riccardo’s inspiration- Ethnic Cultures! Everything else was as great as that- and on my wish list have already landed the sweatshirts with human faces covered with feathers and other decorations print. By the way one of these jackets would be a perfect match for me! That is an awesome collection. Here are real, out of heart, congratulations for Tisci. I love this type of fashion moments!
HAIDER ACKERMAN- This is his first menswear collection since 2010! From this time I was waiting and waiting and now it is- Haider Ackerman SS14 for men! It is really superb! Of course everyone knew how it more or less will look like- very Haider style. The presentation was similar to women’s- satin, chiffon, silk, dark colour palete were seen and this type of clothing like crotch pants and loose tops. I called this collection an Andalusian chic. First of all the colours- red, orange, kakki, all in dark tones. And it’s all super male style and modern at the same time! Plus the model’s tattoos look marvelous. This collection beats all menswear SS14 for now! 
RAF SIMONS- the designer of Dior didn’t suprise nor was bad. It was very Raf- minimalism, prints, shorts, socks and broques. I would wear SOME of these T-shirts, but the rest wasn’t my type. The prints were all about industrial packages, like for example of clusters. But in reality the collection wasn’t very different from last Summer. However it was good!
VALENTINO- it was very classy and still was connected to last season- camo. The sweatshirts and shoes were all over covered with camo! The rest was just as great as this print. Sophisticated sport elegance, leather pockets on shirts, cool trousers and beautiful colours of blue and orange. That was a very casual collection mixed with luxury and cool touch! Love it!
“Questioning the cliche of the exotic, the cliche of the perfect summer- of impossible happiness” Miuccia Prada said in one of her very elusive comments after her Sunday Milan men’s show for S14. The wild and awesome muraks around the runway- in red, yellow and green- meant something more than a extra ordinary decoration. There was this helicopter flight sound around. The models in flower printed jackets were up to no good.
As the mysterious businessmens were walking around, holding some Shanagaim postcard like bags that looked creepy. These weren’t some kind of Gaugin flowers- the architect Rem Koolhaas and his OMA organization, described the set as “menacing paradise”. But who wouldn’t love to li e here? Clothes are rich and fresh, full of desire? There is nothing new about Tahitian shirts which Prada used before. There is still this allure feeling. It’s all about the rich mans that colonised Vietman and used their goods for them. Well, you’ve got to be imaginative to give such a dense and realistic idealogy…
Design & Culture by Ed 