Positive. Marni Pre-Fall 2019

May 16, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

There’s always something very joyous and positive about Francesco Risso‘s approach to designing collections for Marni. For pre-fall 2019, which starts to hit the stores, he crashed prints and textures without much caution, creating a beautifully chaotic wardrobe for an equally unique personality. The utilitarian elegance of uniforms was translated into elongated dusters, sleek car coats and double-breasted peacoats in thick fabrics like felted and pressed bouclé, padded satin, polished leather, shearlings and ponyskins. Psychedelic brocades and Lurex jacquards were used in one blouse, while Inuit-inspired prints were mixed together in opera coats and skirts with half-plissé side panels. The recurring use of natural materials is a nod to the no-waste, responsible approach the designer emphasizes. I think Marni, with Risso’s folksy aesthic, can take a step forward and start making its collections from upcycled materials, too. And incorporate traditional artisans’ work into each collection. This would be a brilliant example for other Italian brands to follow.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Knit Wonderland. Missoni AW19

March 5, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

Angela Missoni’s autumn-winter 2019 collection for her family brand was all about knitwear – which isn’t really a surprise, since we’re talking about Missoni, the ultimate knit kingdom. Cozy ponchos, V-neck dresses worn over turtlenecks, lurex-like pants in ocean blue, an ethnic robe coat worn with an orange hoodie… everything that makes winter dressing sound not that bad. Who wouldn’t want to layer up in these soft, fleecy garments? I also really loved the striped tights styled with matching outerwear. Bella Hadid’s look was just it.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Neat. Salvatore Ferragamo AW19

March 4, 2019March 4, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

Paul Andrew and Guillaume Meilland are a good duo for Salvatore Ferragamo. The first does womenswear, the latter menswear, but their visions are well coordinated and balanced for a brand that’s all about Italian luxury goods. In their second season, consistence and neatness is the key. Andrew’s approach is “dressing toe to head”. It all began from a dig in the brand’s rich archives. A shoe from 1942 (a multicolored patchwork suede wedge) informed the collection’s kaleidoscopic palette and the patchwork motif that ran through it. It’s a nice fun fact, but it doesn’t really reflect in the clothes that are brilliant, just as they are. A pin-striped deconstructed dress; a butter-y nappa leather jacket in cobalt blue; a rustical, plaid blanket skirt; sleeveless knit worn over a masculine shirt… I see lots of delightful daywear here. The appearance of all the gorgeous, mature model veterans – Liya Kebede, Maggie Rizer, Kirsty Hume, Georgina Grenville – and their appearance in these clothes made another statement: Ferragamo’s wardrobe is a real wardrobe.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

So Donatella. Versace AW19

March 4, 2019March 4, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

Mi-Mi-Bella
(I’m a rich bitch, I’m the upper class)
All of the day
(I’m the pearl to your oyster, I’m a babe)
I’m gonna smoke Marlboro Lights and drink Champagne
(I smoke Marlboro Reds and drink Champagne)
DONATELLA!

Who doesn’t want to be Donatella Versace, for even a day? This attitude, this aura! Like in Lady Gaga’s quite iconic song, this woman is pure charisma. So was Versace‘s autumn-winter 2019 collection, splashed in neon colours, filled with S&M details and lots, lots of lace, leopard fur (faux!) and bling. Shalom Harlow opened the show, Stephanie Seymour closed it, like in the days of Gianni. Donatella smartly mixes Versace’s archival codes with her own love for power dressing. And the t-shirt made in collaboration with Richard Avedon Foundation – feauturing Donatella herself photographed by the late master of image-making – is the show’s key message: this blond is the boss!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Untamed Eclecticism. Gucci AW19

March 4, 2019March 4, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

Alessandro Michele‘s Gucci is like an endless rollercoaster – sometimes, you just love the craziness of the entire thing; sometimes, you’re near puking. This time, however, I felt the first. In a venue covered with more than 120,000 LED lightbulbs and a 100-meter long mirrored runway, a tribe of beautifully eccentric individuals made an appearance. Rich in tailoring, pattern and opulent decoration, many of the looks were worn with masks of all sorts. Spiked, coloured, one in the form a of an eagle, the masks represented showing and hiding who we are, and to protect the kindness and beauty inside. Fantastical shapes, faux fur accessories in the boldest shades and gold metal ear coverings inspired by the 24-karat gold work ‘Fashion Fiction #1’ from 1968 by artist Eduardo Costa were all here, matched and mismatched in true manner of Michele. Those elongated jackets, wide trousers, ornate robes, dresses with puffed sleeve (and whatever else you see here) are no longer for women or men specifically. Alessandro wants to create clothes for individuals, who no longer limit themselves through gender boundaries. He does so, with his eternal love for untamed eclecticism.