Wild Horses. Roberto Cavalli SS17

September 24, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Exactly a year ago, I was on fence with Peter Dundas‘ appointment at Robero Cavalli. Right now, I’m bewildered with myself, as I’m about to write an applauding review about his latest, spring-summer 2017 collection. It’s stunning, and so excessively Cavalli. And it’s crazy in love with rock & roll, sex and of course… love! Dundas looks back at the hippie 60s and crazy 70s, delivering Mick Jagger’s shirts, sultry boheme dresses, chic denim flares and patchworked maxi-skirts. The clothes aren’t too inventive and they will definitely hit a specific niche of Roberto Cavalli customers (think extremely tall, Italian donna with bangs and a yacht), but they literally look like authentic artifacts coming from wardrobe of Janis Joplin, and other music icons. Peter, the ultimate Playboy of the fashion industry, visibly craves to live in those times, filled with sun-drenched journeys to Morocco and lots of champagne. But who doesn’t?

Female Nomad. No21 SS17

September 23, 2016September 23, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Alessandro Dell’AcQua isn’t resigning from his signature touches this season, like the ethernally chic macramé lace skirts or feather-trimmed tops. Simultaneously, he’s ready for introducing new attitude to his label: No21 has never been so athleisure-wise as it’s now for spring-summer 2017. Breaking down the first looks, it’s easy to spot the designer’s obsession with modernistic mesh, as it appeared everywhere, from the hems on loose dresses to sporty t-shirts. Hoodies are wherever you turn this season, but Dell’AcQua didn’t feel discouraged with that fact. His version, in lace and with a pastel-green zip, is über-cool. But it’s not only about the current street-wise mood at No21. Multi-printed, patchwork skirts and dresses suggested the look of a modern-day nomad who’s prepared for every day’s adventures. Care-free and optimistic, she wears her awakening tassels, opulent embellishments and gypsy-esque florals with grace. Also, I loved the way how Alessandro played with footwear: his kitten-heels were taped with fluorescent bows and, as usual in case of Dell’AcQua, were styled with beige socks. Pastel-pink loving No21 girl for spring dramatically differs from the sharp, grunge roxette we’ve seen for autumn. Oh, and the sunglasses line was a pretty new addition, too! Made in collaboration with the one and only, Linda Farrow.

Different Love. Gucci SS17

September 22, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Glittering with over 250,000 mirrored sequins, the all-pink venue of Gucci spring-summer 2017 collection reminded a high-profile striptease club. The released mist reassembled cigarette smoke, while the velvet stools and sofas suggested one thing – Alessandro Michele is not a step closer to such thing as “minimalism” this season. Indeed, the collection had something to do with trashy chic – just have a look at the extremely platformed footwear. “Prostitute in Venice used to wear these“, the designer said backstage, while discussing his references and inspirations. Red latex tights, worn casually with knitted skirts, screamed “sex”, too. Alessandro’s mind is not that innocent, after all.

There are different types of “love”, and there is a variety of romantic accents in Michele’s kitsch-appealing clothing. As always, the outing featured a line of polished and refined ready-to-wear, which has a lot to do with alta moda, as the Italians tend to say. Knitted cardigan featuring a monkey embroidery illustrated by artist Jayde Fish; satin gown with pineapple style sleeves, detailed with sequins and intricate embellishments; tulle dress with tapestry-like florals and a leather corset. Each piece might become a go-to for a fancy date, a boudoir night or an intoxicating night-clubbing. Michele never keeps himself distant from emotions in his fashion. This collection is connected to the intense topic of love, even if we mean a wounded, broken heart. One of the evening dresses had an embroidered, red heart in the front, stabbed with a dagger – is the ethereal woman wearing it ready for a night out, but without her parter? She’s sad, but she looks spectacular and very dramatic. A bamboo fan is even more ambiguous. The slogan on it stated “Blind for love” in gothic font, and Alessandro definitely relates to that as a designer searching for beauty, and a person in real life.

P.S. In the show’s soundtrack, Florence Welch read William Blake’s poems. Dreamy.

Throwback Sunday – Prada SS04

July 31, 2016July 28, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

#ThrowbackSunday – spring/summer 2004

“It was about tourism and craftsmanship, many things,” Miuccia Prada said of her spring-summer 2004 outing. Few years after Anthony Minghella’s cult The Talented Mr. Ripley, a sun-drenched thriller set in Italy, Prada was going straight for sunny dolce vita á la Gwyneth Paltrow’s wardrobe and Jude Law’s idyllic escapades. On-the-waist skirts printed with Mediterranean scenes, Capri pants, bathing suits, evening frocks, silk bras and tulle dresses in earthy shades of brown – did you need anything else back in 2004 for a great summer season? It’s absolutely relevant today, by the way. This is what you call an Italian luggage for true, Roman holidays.

Men’s – Voyager. Gucci SS17

June 22, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Shocking green carpet with a huge red snake – that was the first thing Gucci’s guests saw, minutes before the spring-summer 2017 show started. But they didn’t have a long break from Gucci extravaganza, though. Just a few weeks after the spectacular anglomania splendour in London, Alessandro Michele, brand’s creative director, presented a show for men which was into this season’s motif, so travelling. Like Prada, Michele challenged himself to make his collection not a literal rip-off of oriental kimonos, but something more eclectic and meaningful. In fact, his “travel” is something totally different. “I hate to travel,” he said backstage, confusing everyone. Still, he loves travelling from aesthetics to aesthetic, mentally, not physically. “You can travel in different ways,” mused Michele. “With a book, you can travel. If I change the tapestry of my chair, I sit and I travel.” To an extend, it’s true – with a whole lot of tapestry, embroidery and embellishment, his menswear collection was a diversified version of a voyager’s wardrobe. Leather bombers with colourful dragon heads, rich, velvet coats, satin kimono jacket, Asian patterns featuring Donald Duck – like a treasure chest of cheesy souvenirs from around the world. Essentials, like biker jackets or turtlenecks, were pimped up with florals and marine stripes, while the classical horse-bit loafers were styled with fish-net tights (nothing surprises me anymore during men’s fashion month, honestly). As eclectic as it could be – that’s Alessandro’s world.