First Dibs – Paula Cademartori SS16 Accessories

October 12, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Who doesn’t know Paula Cademartori, needs to quickly look her up and keep on the fashion radar! The success of Paula Cademartori‘s accessory line is based on an aesthetic vision focused on intense care for details, combined with the determination to carry out production in Italy. Each bag is conceived as a design object to own and love. The precious seal of each model is a metal buckle, personally designed by Paula supported by her background in jewellery and industrial design. Her new SS16 collection that was presented in Milan a few weeks ago tells one, major thing – fringes and colours will storm the streets next summer… in both, handbags and shoes!

Simple, Simple. Jil Sander SS16

October 1, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rodolfo Paglialunga and Jil Sander is still an unclear match for me. Jil Sander’s strict minimalism is missed since the debutant collection, while the designer’s signature is not entirely visible. Spring-summer 2016 was light and soft – the statement hats stole Instagram’s spotlight for few minutes after the show. But the collection was absolutely not amusing. It did not last in my mind for long. Beige coats, white pajama looks, black blazers and midi-skirts – really, no excitement at all.

Subverting Reality. Prada SS16

September 29, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Miuccia Prada‘s subverted reality can be felt in the most “realistic” way at Fondazione Prada (soon, a post coming up on it!). This place serves as a museum of modern art and has a quaint, strongly elusive and a highly reflective aura around it. The complex of former-industrial factory exhibits the installations and paintings, and just like the SS16 fashion show venue, it’s all about raw concrete. And this minimal background is the best for a viewer to experience art. And fashion, as in case of Prada‘s latest collection. This collection was all about the eccentric side of Miuccia – disco ball earrings and Cuban heels; snake-skin coats in pastel green; gold lips by Pat McGrath. Also, it fused different decades – 40’s masculinity (the jackets), 60’s geometric patterns and 80’s modernism represented in silhouettes of the skirts. Although the collection was pretty built-up with layers and various textures, there was a place for more exposing and daring pieces. Take the bathrobe coats made out of transparent organza or net-like necklaces that delicately showed some flesh. This collection is deeply rooted in Prada’s signatures and it changes the classical wardrobe of the brand’s customer.

Massimo’s Revamp. Emilio Pucci SS16

September 28, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Massimo Giorgetti is the creator of Milan’s most flat and, shockingly, playful brand – MSGM is the label that made Milan Fashion Week much more youthful place to come to. MSGM is also the commercial best-seller – so why not make its designer the new creative director of Emilio Pucci, an Italian house with a strong heritage and signature? Peter Dundas, the former designer of the house, moved to Roberto Cavalli (a perfect match – over-sexualised cocktail dresses at the most opulent brand I know) and now it is the time for a revamp. The “zero” collection for Resort 2016 was promising – the clothes were interesting and the codes of the house became more edgy. But what about the real, runway debut? Well, it is good. But just good. And that’s a pity because the anticipation was big. The sailor motive was reflected in various shades of blue and masculine silhouettes; the embroideries of fish and sea-shells did look precious. But it feels a bit like Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe, Nicolas Ghesquiere’s Louis Vuitton and Alessandro Dell AcQua’s No21. Modern, innovative and romantic at the same time. Even the accessories, which caught my eye instantly, didn’t help. Hopefully next season will be more clear for Massimo’s attitude towards Pucci. Now, it looks like an expensive, luxurious version of MSGM.

Gypsy Life. No21 SS16

September 27, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Care-free. Comfortable. These are the words that can easily describe Alessandro Dell Acqua‘s No21 spring-summer 2016 collection. With George Michael’s moody tune playing during the fashion show, the models of the moment – Lineisy Montero, Molly Bair, Stella Lucia – wore long, silk dresses in delicate cigarette prints. The romantic colour palette was broken by gypsy-esque florals and modernist stripes. Also, the collection was plenty of the season’s favourite bias-cut slip dresses thrown over t-shirts – this gave the entire collection a very easy attitude, and the socks styled with sheer skirts were a throwback to #normcore. These clothes will definitely hit the stores with success, just like the statement tasseled, raffia sandals. These will be truly popular next season, as they are instant favourites of street-style stars. Also, it is worth to note that within the new season, No21 starts a new eyewear business. The first silhouettes are circular, simple and very comfortable. I must admit, that season after season, Alessandro builds his fashion identity with amazing speed – this collection can be called as the best one to date. And no wonder why. It is really good.