Men’s – Back to Black. Bottega Veneta AW16

January 18, 2016January 18, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Tomas Maier, the creative director of Bottega Veneta, takes his man (and woman) to the darker side this season. But the colour of black had its function – Maier made it the leading colour of the show in order to present a contrast. “It’s about the silhouette. I felt it needed change. All the sportswear-inspired elements that we have been putting in: It’s time to move on. It’s becoming a trend, lots of people are doing that, I don’t need to do it forever.” Rather than reintepreting de luxe sweatpants, the collection was focused on the way the athletic, yet elegant clothes look on the body of both men and women. For guys, Bottega Veneta channeled a loose-fit chic, while girls looked soigné in their calfskin coats and relaxed skirts. Even though this collection is not a ground-breaking one, it feels like one of the best menswear outings by the designer up to date.

Poet’s Romance. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Pre-Fall’16

January 17, 2016February 1, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

I was appealed to Lorenzo Serafini‘s toned romance at Philosophy already in September – and this moody pre-fall 2016 lookbook wins my heart, even though the brand felt a bit sleepy to me in the past. Feminity, romance and lightness are the stylistic traits of the new creative director of the label, which was found by Alberta Ferretti back in 1984. Before his appointment, Stefano lead the womenswear at Dolce & Gabanna – however I can’t entirely believe in this by looking at those delicate and sensual clothes presented by the brand’s muses, Stella Lucia and Julia Jamin. Initially, the collection is about a masculine, slightly over-sized yet minimal suit – but then, Serafini keeps it more girly, introducing frivolous, lace dresses and crotchet tops. Also, the shearling coat selection is sharp – it seems like the season’s must-have piece will come from Philosophy.

Kaleidoscopic Florence. Emilio Pucci Pre-Fall’16

January 14, 2016January 14, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Massimo Giorgetti’s playful vision at Emilio Pucci keeps getting better and better with each season. The pre-fall 2016 collection is his third for the Florence-based, heritage brand, and it already feels like he has been at the house for a prolific period of time – this young, Italian designer mixes the signature Emilio prints in such a care-free, yet vibrant way. Massimo focused on reinterpreting the Pucci codes in a contemporary, slightly humorous way. The silk pants and shirts in blue-feather prints; bold lips pattern, which made the pleated skirts look, oh yes, bellissimo. The skiwear roots were revamped this season and hopefully, it will again be a game-stopper on the Courchevel route – modern V-neck knits, “kaleidoscope” jackets and boldly coloured fur coats looked luxurious, but not too excessive. Forget the image of a fancy lady with a freezing dog on the slopes. One thing’s sure – Giorgetti and his team at Emilio Pucci are moving in the right direction, making the brand’s season-to-season outings feel unexpected, lifey and beautifully eclectic.

Dreamy Francesco

January 6, 2016January 6, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s not the first time when I admit that Italians do it better, in case cuisine, and their craftsmanship in fashion. Since Milan fashion week is getting better and better each season with exciting designers like Massimo Giorgetti, Alessandro Dell’AcQua, Stella Jean and Alesssandro Michele, the rivalry is strong – but Francesco Scognamiglio wins my heart with his spring-summer 2016 outing, which was all about dreamy, sheer dresses. The delicate lace details and ruffled sleeves of these flawless gowns are mesmerising. Magdalena Frackowiak, Aya Jones and Peyton Knight looked like angels wearing those sensual, white silhouettes… and if talking of Francesco, a big deal is coming up – during the upcoming haute couture week in Paris, the designer will present his first ever couture collection! So we can all expect an excessive dose of modern fairy-tale looks and one-of-a-kind pieces.

Monkeys at Prada

January 2, 2016January 2, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

2016 is the year, which according to Chinese lunar New Year belongs to monkeys. In Chinese zodiac, monkeys are characterised by their curiousity of the world and creative energy – so no wonder why designers make monkeys appear on the runways regularly. Back in 2011, the obsession about monkeys in fashion sparkled after Prada‘s colourful and bold spring-summer fashion show. Monkey motifs appeared on the architectural tops and pencil skirts, whilee the dresses with embroidered monkeys were hand-made in India. Moreover, Miuccia Prada went bananas that season, presenting the potassium-rich fruits on the frivolous mini-skirts and daddy-from-Hawaii shirts. Up to date, it’s one of my favourite collections coming from Miuccia, and now as it gained even bigger significance in 2016 – I adore it!