Intrigue. Prada SS15

September 19, 2014September 20, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Staring at undulating purple sand dunes from the deep aubergine carpeted seating, the audience spent a good half an hour getting spaced out to a sci-fi whirring soundtrack that only built up the anticipation. And then the denim stitched coats came out, with Gemma Ward having an epic appearance. And then the Victoriana skirts. And it all changed into intrigue. Darkly romantic, beautiful with imperfections and shinings of the past without literally referencing tropes of the decade – we are totally convinced that we all need to look at the seventies through Miuccia-tinted glasses. Even these mysterious kimono dresses worn by types like Lara Stone felt slightly perverse but very sublime. Art by Mickalene Thomas.

Military Rococo. No.21 SS15

September 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Allesandro Dell’Acqua presented a new fashion genre: military rococo. It’s deeply Italian- embroideries, surrealism, opulence- but also strictly casual (checks and waist belts). And it’s seriously lovely! For summer, No.21 presented an avant-garde fusion of ready-to-wear clothing and alta moda embellishments on skirts and shirts. There was also something punk about the collections, Crop tos had strong Scottish checks on them, and were cooly embroidered with crystals… and the shoes were all about Salvador Dali to me. The exagerrated ribbon had funny eyes attched to them, making the feet look pretty different. But that’s only a good thing.

The 70’s. Gucci SS15

September 19, 2014September 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Frida Gianini re-visted the 70’s for summer, making the collection boheme and luxury. Fur, velvet, jeans, logo- all of that was present, with lots of embroideries and gorgeous handkerchiefs tied around model’s necks. Oh, and if you have an old, Jackie Gucci bag which you don’t wear because of the logo or the “luxurious” brownish colour, then it’s it time to shine again! This bag with the Gucci striped handle is having it’s comeback. The collection itself isn’t kind of mind-blowing. It’s good, it brings luxury and Gucci legacy back to it’s roots. It’s basically Gucci.

Italian Summer. Stella Jean SS15

September 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Aah, those Italian summers, where you simply swim the pool, sunbathe with a favourite book and visit those small, cozy villages… Stella Jean, the designer coming from Hawaii, which is based in Milan, really brought the Mediterrean sun to all of us in her latest collection for summer. The emerging star of MFW brings up odd silhouttes of her signature, strongly printed skirts and over-sized t-shirts, giving us the heat of Sardinia in one of the capes and beauty of Corsica in another dress. With the prints painted on the clothes, the collection feels very Stella Jean and very, very appropriate for hot summer! Instantly in love!

The Best of AW14

September 1, 2014September 1, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

My number one this season is Haider Ackermann. His beautiful fall was dark, elusive and very Parisienne. Models wore masculine coats and trousers, slim maxi dresses, over-sized shirts and leather jackets. This collection is the quintessence of chic.

Celine had the cool non-chalance in it. Phoebe Philo brought us fur muffs, kimonos, over-sized tunics and sleek coats, making the collection extremely casual with these fabulous, patent leather clogs. As usually, it’s one of my favourites.

Tibi from New York had the best ponchos of the season! Styled with black mules, Amish hats and black midi skirt, the label had one of the most great looks in the whole season. And many other pieces are still having a spotlight…

Dries Van Noten was all about stripes, colour and florals. It had a lot of coolness in it- a midi skirt worn with a orange skirt was never so interesting and sophisticated!

Miuccia Prada as usually brought Prada the most outstanding pieces of the season. Shearling jackets, cricket v-neck sweaters, Bauhaus inspired heels, monkey fur dress, bags with chains… and many, many more.

I have a special place in my heart for that Acne collection. It’s fresh, Scandinavian vibe and tribal printed culottes are simply amazing. And of course the exaggerated hats! You want get a cold wearing one of them, that’s a sure thing!

Louis Vuitton has Nicolas Ghesquiere right now, and his debutant collection was simply it. 40’s & 60’s fashion come back with huge steps. And all these boots are a must-have, just like the Petit Malle clutches.

Yohji Yamamoto’s winter collection is the most unwearable and most fantastic of all. The cocoon coats with those hand painted manga illustration are not clothes any more, but art.

N.21 by Allesandro Dell Acqua was very Italian. It has three key pieces- a cozy, wool sweater, an embroidered, midi skirt and pointy polished flats. And nothing else.

The relaxed Marc Jacobs collection was my favourite from New York. It was all head in clouds, with these pastel colours, v-cuts, solemn and pale faces of models and Jessica Lange attitude.

These were my 10 favourite AW14 collections… and on the 4th, officially, the NYFW starts with SS15! Yay!