The New World System. MBMJ SS15

September 11, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley, since last season, are the girls behind MBMJ (Marc by Marc Jacobs). And they are really doing a REVOLUTION (see AW14) at this brand! For summer, the designers brought a new strong sign- The New World System. With this, written on the cool tomboy shirts, we all really felt something new and refreshing. For example the round, sculptural plexi handbag (it’s FAB). Plastic-like polka dots tops. Latex looking blouses and leggings. And very polished Dr. Martens boots…the collection was really colourful, and it felt super cute and kawaii! What else felt lovely was the fact, that the collection is totally bold, youthful, fun… and these things are a bit missed in present fashion world. Katie and Luella, keep on doing what you are doing- it’s MEGA ULTRA great.

Punk. Rodarte SS15

September 11, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Kate and Laura Mulleavy came back to their extraordinary roots, where punk and spirit plays a role! For Summer, the sisters did a major work. Their concept? Bring everything, that Rodarte woman is made of. Embroidery. Serenity. Punk. Piercing? Yes. The metallic half circles were glued to model’s eyebrows, to make a big statement in NYFW’s beauty. If talking of the clothes, we had every Rodarte girl- from the Harley Davidson gang, up to a sea siren and the downton NY babe. I am simply stunned with all of that! It simply takes all the words away. Simply see those Lea Colombo photographs from backstage.

Darling. Rosie Assoulin SS15

September 10, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rosie Assoulin’s dresses are the go-to on red carpets and street style. For summer, the designer showed off with her signature, sculptural gowns, bold colours and feminine skirts. And all of that, comnbined with huge, huge hats. As usually, Rosie presented a vibrant collection, with it-girl pieces, like the culottes and a over-sized top. But, personally, I would love to see something new coming up from this great designer. We seriously see the same dresses in every collection (well, maybe the colours change a bit)! It’s not boring or traumatic, but simply… monotonous.

Sanctuary. The Row SS15

September 10, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Row by the Olsen sisters is usually my favourite. But this time, it’s even more than favourite. It’s holy. Presented in a silent, brick loft with wooden floors in SoHO, the models started to emerge in a slow, calm way. Pouring through skylights, the morning sun glinted off the gold basket weave of a loosely tied coat, and shimmered on an organza top that looked as if it might’ve been dipped in tea or sepia-dyed. These were angels? Close. The clothes made from raw silk, crisp cotton, woven tabard finished with fringe… not many New York labels concentrate so much on detailing.

The caftans, peplums, over-sized coats, the robe dresses… it all felt serene, noting the whole collection was kept in gold, creme. brown, black and white colour. Although the fabrics and clothes may sound splendorous, they weren’t even a bit seductive. They were elusive, and simply, minimally, beautiful. Plus, I would love to see these pieces worn on a summer escape- they are loose (but not slouchy), chic (but not elegant). And these wonderful sandals/flats make us drool… this simply is the strongest collection to date.

Fantasy. Thom Browne SS15

September 10, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

After you see Thom Browne’s collection, you totally forget about normcore, practical clothing and slouch dressing. Ignoring the trends and tendencies, Thom always does something magical in his shows. This time, we went to a magical forest party, where everything is full of bloom and colour. Out of the shark tooth tweed, colourful feathers are “growing” out. Flowers are simply evolving from the signature TB handbags, and different beautiful things happen on the long gowns… this magnificent performance/presentation is definitely a NYFW’s highlight. Thom Browne, you always stay the same Enfant Terrible of fashion. Hope you will never change!