People Are Flowers. Rodarte SS24

September 8, 2023September 9, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

This New York Fashion Week needs some time to warm up. A swarm of publicity events that could have been an e-mail and a sea of uninspiring presentations feel like a false start. Kate and Laura Mulleavy‘s Rodarte collection – no runway this time – is an emphasis of all things this brand stands for. “We were thinking about clothing as gardens and flowers. The idea of people blooming, in a way, but also, how do we use the history of textures and color from Rodarte and celebrate that in a collection about gardens?” Flowers for spring aren’t ground-breaking, but the Mulleavy’s served a captivating take on the theme. The opening gown, with its bodice made from layers of purple and black lace and beaded embroidery at the bust, a sweeping voluminous skirt made from strips of organza in gradient shades of purple, and a matching capelet in the same organza ruffles, set the tone. The pack of the designers’ favourite actresses – from Milla Jovovich and her daughter Ever to The Bear‘s Ayo Edebiri – elevated all that flower craze into something more sophisticated. The big standouts were the ruffle dresses that harked back to Rodarte’s first collection in 2006. The vertical ruffles were pieced together from different colors of silk organza, silk chiffon, silk charmeuse, and silk georgette and were decorated with fabric rosettes. Silk bias-cut slip dresses, sometimes with little sleeves, had a 1930s feel; but it was their color palette – bright iris, peony yellow, emerald green – that made them more readily identifiable as dresses of our current era. “Even if we’re referencing an era, I don’t think that the overall coming-together of a collection ever feels vintage,” Kate explained. “So even if it’s a vibe or a cut that you could align with a time period somehow by the color or the construction, it feels fresh.”

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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The American Classic. Ralph Lauren AW’2000

August 16, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

For some reason, every year, somewhere mid-August, I’m going through Ralph Lauren‘s 2000s collections. Maybe it’s the thought of September approaching; there’s an autumnal feel about Lauren’s runway collections. And they are very inspiring, styling-wise. In the autumn-winter 2000 fashion show, “there’s a new kind of glamour that’s polished, sleek and sexy,” said the designer about his offering of simple, elegant American classics. Suits played a key role for Lauren that season – black, fitted jackets and sharply detailed trousers and skirts were worn with casual cashmere crewnecks and ivory silk blouses. Fair Isle sweaters accompanied comfortable Donegal tweeds and steely leather pants. Striking crocodile car coats and broadtail trousers added a shot of opulence to the presentation, as did the evening dresses: there were body-conscious satin and jersey gowns, as well as Persian-motif embroidered gowns. Honestly, if I saw this collection during a 2023 New York Fashion Week, I would be very pleased.

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Twisted Nostalgia. LRS SS24

July 30, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

At the age of 18, Raul Solis packed his bags and moved from the West Coast to New York. His coming of age coincided with the rise of the Strokes, Yeah Yeah Yeahs, and the Rapture, who played at small venues to beer-fueled crowds at the time. For LRS‘s spring-summer 2024, Solis indulged in what he called “twisted nostalgia” by referencing the early 2000s and its early ’60s teddy-boy roots in a collection that was indie – without the sleaze – both in aesthetics and origin. It’s no small feat to keep a self-owned business afloat. Elements of the collection – the melted Mickey Mouse figures, a pair of pants made from old American flags – speak to the world we’re living in today, one where the dream coexists with nightmares. The crystal blood drops on slim-cut pants and jackets reference the struggle but not in a macabre way. But LRS also offers more relatable, day-to-day pieces. The designer cut a striped turtleneck to expose just the right slice of midriff and accessorized a pair of low-cut rocker pants with an extra-big belt buckle and a trailing skinny scarf. A mini kilt looked anything but uniform, and wide-cut jeans were made to rave. All of these pieces conveyed a narrative without being tricky.

Back To Black. Batsheva Resort 2024

July 21, 2023July 21, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

“I get uncomfortable when there are too many things in the collection that aren’t pieces that I love. So I’ve really tried to make it what I want to wear now.” Meaning: Batsheva Hay has a colour palette of black, white and gray on her mind, and likes to wear variations of dresses in 1950s style. That’s clearly reflected in her resort 2024 offering. In recent seasons Batsheva has been experimenting with various directions she can take her New York-based brand without completely abandoning what has made her successful in the first place. For this season that meant vintage-y silhouettes and barely any printed cotton. “It’s really all about different fabrics,” she said. Highlights included a black velvet long sleeve dress with a white lace-up detail running from bust to shoulder; a streamlined maxi dress with flared sleeves and a slight mockneck in shiny black sequins, and a long ruched body-con velvet dress in a dark wine color (one of three colorful pieces in the collection) with a high neck and a slightly padded shoulder. Hay may be queen of the dress, but she loves a matching set, and she had some great options, including a black high waist a-line skirt and button-down with a “funny firework embroidery” in sequins; a four-button jacket with dramatic ruffled sleeves and a matching maxi skirt in an abstracted floral silk jacquard; and a black taffeta button-down and matching cropped bootcut trousers decorated with all-over rhinestones. Though it skews more serious than her usual offerings, resort still bears her off-beat charm.

A couple of my favourite Batsheva pieces you can shop now:

Batsheva cropped leopard-print cotton-velvet top

Batsheva x Laura Ashley ruffled floral-print cotton-poplin mini dress

Batsheva lace-trimmed pintucked embroidered cotton-poplin mini dress

Batsheva pearl-embellished faille blouse

Commanding. Khaite Resort 2024

July 15, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

Khaite resort 2024 fashion collection. Black sheer dress worn over lingerie. Art collage. Anna Ewers model.

Resort is the moment for Catherine Holstein to explore the more laid-back aspect of Khaite, the New York-based brand that keeps on stealing women’s hearts across the world. Super-chunky cashmere hand-knits and impressive sweater dresses clash with fluid sheer evening dresses and billowy ruffles. A stretch jersey henley bodysuit worn with high-waisted leather pants just might be the star of the season; it’s sexy in the offhand way of that virally famous Khaite cashmere bra that Katie Holmes wore a couple of seasons ago. You’ll also find the jeans that are a foundational part of the business – the silhouette of the moment is ’90s-ish, full-legged and relaxed – and an array of leather jackets that are unmistakably cool. A group of silk twill pieces in a souvenir print with depictions of New York City landmarks was a surprise, a charming one. Holstein likes an exaggerated shoulder and a defined waist, or a cropped one, and she experimented with military-style buttons on some styles. The coat silhouettes are oversized and commanding.