Finesse. Danielle Frankel AW25

I said it once, I will say again: Danielle Frankel is the contemporary maestra of bridalwear. Her designs are so exquisitely crafted and majestic in execution that you will inevitably desire to wear one of her dresses not only on that most special day, but on many other occasions. Dominated by bold, architectural, Art Deco shapes and Erté-inspired forms, the latest collection stuns with incredible construction and finesse.

Take the micro-pleated dress that swishes and swirls around the body, like flowing water. Except this isn’t a styling trick; the micro-pleats in the dress are actually hundreds of micro-bones holding the shape. Then, there’s the hand-painted silk chiffon made in collaboration with a French artist who moved in to Frankel’s New York atelier for a few weeks and created a breath-taking, impressionistic floral gown in dark green as well as the hand-painted organza cocoon worn by Kristen McMenamy in the lookbook.

Frankel makes all of her dresses in Manhattan’s Garment District, and she has a talented group of designers in her atelier that can rival any haute couture house. The finale gown, also modeled by McMenamy, is made of 100,000 petals which took the atelier four months to sew by hand. Somehow, it looks effortless – just like any truly great couture garment.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Edie & Nico. Zankov AW25

A great autumn-winter 2025 lookbook was delivered by Henry Zankov. This designer knows what he’s doing with his knitwear-focused label. Inspired by Nico and Edie Sedgwick, the 1960s New York it-girls and Warhol Factory stars, he came up with a fresh interpretation of their style that doesn’t feel too mood-boardy. Oversized paillettes on a sweater or a skirt peeking out from beneath fuzzy coats were reminiscent of the sequins Sedgwick might have picked up from Paraphernalia. The absolutely brilliant combination of a vividly hued sweater and boyish lanky pants was pure Nico, 2025 version. But what’s most important, this Zankov collection feels wholeheartedly joyful, honest – and believable. It makes me think of Consuelo Castiglioni’s Marni, in the best possible way.

ED’s SELECTION:

Zankov Raven Merino Wool-jacquard Turtleneck Sweater


Zankov Delphine Brushed-knit Skirt


Zankov Mina Sequined Wool Cropped Cardigan


Zankov Lune Two-Tone Sleeveless Maxi Wool Dress


Zankov Marshall Abstract Pencil Merino Wool Maxi Skirt


Zankov Alicja Tow-Tone Wool Scarf

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Essence. Proenza Schouler AW25

Everyone wondered how will Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McColough mark their (still puzzling) departure from Proenza Schouler. They did with a beautiful, winter-y, yet sun-drenched lookbook photographed at Manitoga/The Russel Wright Design Center, featuring the ultimate Proenza girls. Binx Walton is wearing a lime-green pleated toga-dress while snow is melting in the background. Julia Nobis looks like the ultimate New York woman in a grey checked blazer, pin-striped shirt and over-sized corduroy balloon-pants. Mica Arganaraz emanates quirky cool in cowl neck dress. In their finale (co-directed with Lisa Muscatel, the long-time head of the design studio), Hernandez and McColough sublimate their signifiers and show us what Proenza Schouler really is in contemporary fashion (that wasn’t always the case with their recent work).

But what’s the future of the brand? Time (and its new CEO, Shira Suveyke Snyder) will tell.

ED’s SELECTION:

Sorel x Proenza Schouler Leather Rubber Chelsea Booties


Proenza Schouler Ruched Jersey-crepe Halterneck Maxi Dress


Proenza Schouler Intarsia Wool Sweater


Proenza Schouler Track Paneled Suede-trimmed Leather Sneakers


Proenza Schouler Arlo Shearling Jacket

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Reclaiming. Luar AW25

Luar closed New York Fashion Week with a much-needed bang. Raul Lopez named his autumn-winter 2025 collection “Pato“. In Spanish, pato means duck, as in the bird, but in some parts of Latin America, such as Puerto Rico, it’s a homophobic slur. “I wanted to reclaim that word,” said Lopez. “Especially right now – I’m not going back in the closet for no one.” That powerful bravado was conveyed in a collection that was a powerful, dynamic homage to all the fashion patos that shaped Lopez’s imagination as a kid: think John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Lacroix. You could also sense Claude Montana’s influence. Major 1980s energy was all over these big shoulders, attitude-giving tailoring and extravagant feather brooches. A plastic, tape-like texture was a recurring motif. “It’s all hodgepodge,” Lopez explained. “The gay boy who’s at home playing with his mom’s jewelry, wrapping a towel around his head to pretend it’s hair, wants to wear a thigh high boot but just wraps a bunch of duct tape around his legs.” This week, fashion in New York had no voice. Until Lopez arrived with his vivacious outing.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Femininity Anew. Tory Burch AW25

Tory Burch is on a roll again. Here’s one of the most convincing collections we’ve seen during this entire New York Fashion Week, one that doesn’t try to be reinvent minimalism, but offers a mindful outlook on femininity. From the playful cardigans that can be wrapped around your body to velvet pea-green trackpants, from utilitarian leather jackets with pockets inspired by an Ingo Maurer wall organizer to unashamedly full, 1950s-isnpired flared wool skirts, this collection satisfies the mind and senses. The line-up doesn’t feel like an afterthought. Moreover, it doesn’t look like a copy of a copy. It’s Tory. The new Tory we have the pleasure to see thrive lately.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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