Fierce! Tom Ford AW18

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A new make-up line. Vegan confessions and fur-free philosophy. A very successful menswear collection was presented just a few days ago. With his autumn-winter 2018 collection, Tom Ford doesn’t only open the official fashion month. He celebrates himself to the fullest.

Whether it’s informed in the 80s heavy references (animal spots leggings, acid colour sequinned dresses, zirconia embellished kitten heels) or Edie Sedgwick’s Warholian glamour, Ford’s runway collection is a splash of joyful ‘fashion is fashion’ optimism. I can’t get enough of these really fierce looking jackets and sleek suites he delivered last night. The show’s diverse casting is as well a big, big point for Ford – although he never seemed to have a problem with having beautiful models of different skin colour in his shows. The #MeToo movement got a space here as well in form of ‘Pussy Power’ clutches, covered in glitter.

NYFW, kicking it off the right, powerful way.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Neo Retro Lady. Saks Potts AW18

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Since its runway debut in 2015, Copenhagen-based label Saks Potts has quickly garnered the attention of the street-style stars and trending editors. With a focus on creating timeless, yet bold outerwear, founders Barbara Potts and Cathrine Saks mix colours and textures when designing their statement coats. Their autumn-winter 2018 presentation in New York felt retro edgy, with the new addition of eveningwear, pussy bow dresses and gorgeously looking umbrellas (!). All those pretty pastel combinations are well contrasted with polka-dots and strong shades of green and fuchsia. What I loved about this collection was the slightly cinematic sense of America’s 60s style. I can easily imagine the a woman wearing one of these belted coats down the Bowery back in the past. But as well now, in 2018.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Femininities. Rodarte AW18

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When actors, musicians and celebrities appear in fashion, the result often results in lots of buzz and fuss. But for Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the autumn-winter 2018 Rodarte look-book is about “portraits of friends”. By “friends”, they mean their long-time muse and collaborator, Kirsten Dunst (she plays the main role in the sister’s debutant film, Woodshock –  worth watching) who poses in a red, floral gown, pregnant. She looks so blossoming. But it’s not only Dunst! There’s Grimes, whose ethereal, out-of-this-world music matches Rodarte vibes and that couture-ish Edwardiana frock; Chloe and Halle, the R&B duo, who twirl cherry-blossom umbrellas; Kim Gordon in a sharp leopard print-ensemble; Rowan Blanchard, actress/activist in a cute varsity jacket; Gia Coppola wearing a chic, faux-fur look; Miranda July, wearing a silk chiffon dotted dress; and others. Mulleavy sisters pursuit the idea of womanhood in their work for years, and this season they embrace that with double power. Choosing those women (who inspire them and represent different femininities) to model their clothes is the best possible choice the designers could make. I’m really, really in love.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

I’m Glamorous. Area Resort 2018

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The moment I saw Area‘s resort 2018 collection, I had Fergie spelling ‘glamorous’ in my head. So G-L-A-M-O-R-O-U-S.

 Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk‘s retro-meets-futurist allure is New York’s latest obsession, whether we’re speaking of their cocktail-ready evening wear or rhinestone hoops. The look-book’s highlights are definitely the intricately embellished sweatpants and hoodies in black. Don’t you agree they redefine the meaning of ‘night-out’ pieces? A peach jacket and candy-pink midi skirts are the more day-to-day elements of the collection, but equally desirable. Also, that Veruschka-inspired hair makes this seductive collection even more drop-dead gorgeous. This season, however, it seems that the designers look towards the Middle East – the fez hats were a quite literal clue. Well, I somehow can see those luxe, yet unpretentious pieces worn near Dubai’s tallest skyscrapers or around the man-made beaches. It’s kind of low-key Carrie Bradshaw / Samatha Jones in the Sex And The City’s desert escapade.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Subtle. The Row Resort 2018

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Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen‘s resort 2018 collection is distinctively The Row. The designers’ subtle minimalism appears in every single piece in that short, black-and-white look-book. From a cashmere, patchworked knit to a taffeta gown with bell sleeves (note that it’s in delightful shade of pink in reality), that’s a very luxe, yet understated wardrobe for the upcoming spring.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki (feautruing Cy Twombly’s artwork).