Mature Seduction. Haider Ackermann SS18

October 2, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s rare to see a designer, who throughout time is true to his or her style, and at the same time is keen on evolving. Haider Ackermann is the perfect example of such designer. Since designing for Berluti, a solely menswear luxury brand, its visible how Ackermann’s tailoring skills have improved and grown up. But still, his signature sensibility is as alive as a decade ago. The spring-summer 2018 isn’t only about breathtaking tailoring (although if every designer had at least one impressive suit in their collection, precisely in a deep shade of burgundy, I would be more than pleased), but also a long-lasting affair with modern-looking draping. I mean, how good are those evening dresses? Dreaming to see Tilda Swinton wearing one on the red carpet, oozing with some unconventional, anti-glamour seduction. In overall, the collection was very mature and minimal, but there were some charming remnants of the ‘old’, badass-pirate-style Haider. The jackets in precious gold (a striking contrast to soft lilac and light yellow) were made of a ‘cracked-up’ fabric, and if you scan it thoroughly, you will notice that it looks like a tattered wallpaper. Really, really good. Well, I should also add ‘as always’ in case of Ackermann.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Show Girl. Nina Ricci SS18

October 1, 2017October 1, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Honestly, I really can’t understand why other fashion critics heavily underrate or slam Guillaume Henry‘s work at Nina Ricci. I think what he does at the heritage French maison looks extremely exquisite and at the same time isn’t too obvious. Even if we’re talking about a military-inspired jacket that had a moment at the Les Invalides fashion show. The collection started calmly: there was an ecru coat with extra-large shoulders styled with, yes, biker shorts. To a surprise of many, it ended with a vivid splash of radiant pink and eye-catching yellow. The most remarkable looks were all about feathers – from head-pieces to mini-dresses – and had something of a chic, Belle Époque inspired show girl. If all the world’s a stage, fashion must be a circus (note that even the runway was under a festive tent). As for me, just let Guillaume have a blast.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Traveller. Loewe SS18

October 1, 2017October 1, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Doing a travel-themed collection is risky, because the designer might easily slip down the pitfall of clichés. But such terms like ‘oriental’, ‘cowboy’ or ‘tribal’ don’t match Jonathan Anderson‘s sophisticated line-up for Loewe. “I want something that people will want to go and touch,” he told the press after the show. Actually, you really want to touch these clothes. The richness of textures is just insane. And it’s even more absorbing, when you realise that each piece has its story, an entire cultural identity behind it. Like a de luxe globe-trotter, the Loewe woman has African and South American traditional handicraft all over her wardrobe; the woven pieces were made according to traditional Peruvian techniques, while fringed sarong skirt seemed to come straight from Argentina. She’s been to Morocco, too, from where the season’s must-have elf-toed sneakers origin – Anderson based the idea on woven sandals coming from that country. Again, another designer would carelessly go a step further and touch the soft topic of cultural appropriation. Anderson plays fair, he finds inspiration and does it with great respect.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Hope. Rick Owens SS18

September 30, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rick Owens‘s wife – the magical Michele Lamy – was laughing wildly in the show’s soundtrack. The fountains of Palais de Tokyo’s yard blasted, sparkling water on the guests (who were given black plastic rain coats). The models wore massive, cocoon-like garments (Comme Des Garçons mood) and huge fanny packs. As far as Owens is concerned with the climate changes, and has moved that global issue in his previous collections, there was a disturbing impression: those were the climate refugees in a dystopian world, where nature takes a revenge. But is the story behind the spring-summer 2018 collection so drastic? As it appeared, not entirely. “It’s a show about hope“, the designer said. The sculptural pieces were more like an armour of rejection to our world’s threats, while layered up dresses and fluid-in-motion tops spoke about human mobility. As equally complex as Rei Kawakubo’s Comme Des Garçons, Rick’s collections are always food for thought.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Inner Strengths. Chloé SS18

September 29, 2017September 29, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

In fact, Natacha Ramsay-Levi is present in the French fashion for years, if you haven’t noticed: first she worked at Balenciaga with Nicolas Ghesquiere and after following the designer, landed a job at Louis Vuitton. But her new role of creative director at Chloé is the first time she’s in the solo spotlight. Succeeding Clare Waight Keller (the Givenchy debut is just around the corner), who kept Chloé in an eternal rhapsody of boho dresses for about six years, Ramsay-Levi also leads a brand previously designed by Karl Lagerfeld, Martine Sitbone, Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo and Hannah McGibbon. That’s what you call an impressive line-up. However, the newly appointed designer’s debut was a nod to the Chloé founder, Gaby Aghion. As the show note stated, Natacha decided to stay true to “the independence and intellectual spirit of Gaby”, while embracing femininity and giving women an opportunity to show their inner strength through clothing. And the spring-summer 2018 collection was just that.

Don’t want to use clichés, but that what the designer did was the best possible version of contemporary Parisian chic. Structured mini-skirts, dresses of different lengths covered with prints by a Bombay / Barcelona based artist Rithika Merchant, a timeless camel coat, velvet suits in horse motif and celestial bright gowns. A mix of eclectic, well-curated pieces that resemble Natacha’s aestehtic sense – unconventional and intimate at the same time. The accessories were also très cool, from Chloé it-bags (slightly pimped up with heavy-chain handles and straps) to irresistibly good boots. In some moments, the collection felt like Louis Vuitton in the last few seasons – but that reflects Ramsay-Levi’s signatures that used to be hidden under the brand’s logo. The designer’s lesser known, whimsical side was definitely felt through the jewellery. One of the gold-plated necklaces looked like the prehistoric sculpture of Venus. Summing it all up – I already adore the Ramsay-Levi and Chloé affair!