Kitsch, Belts and Grandma. Vetements SS16

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One of the season’s most anticipated brands, Vetements, presented its anti-fashion collection in a tacky Chinese restaurant. But, even though the SS16 mood-board wasn’t focused on China nor on Asia, it reflected the spirit of this place through old-fashioned kitsch. Floral dresses inspired by Demna Gvasalia’s  aprons of his grandmother, sequined capes, velvet sweatshirts and tunics – and all of that bound up with ultra-long leather belts with Harley-Davidson-style buckles. The eerie soundtrack of the collection perfecly described the new season’s attitude – it began with gentle waltz and then abruptly descended into Mayhem – the Norwegian heavy metal group. The Vetements logo black hoodies featuring a graphic based on Leonardo Di Caprio and Kate Winslet in Titanic burst confusion (maybe one of Vetements’ designers loves / hates the film?), however the leather jackets that were constructed to be comfortable when sat on real bikes made much sense. The must-have, best-selling jeans were renewed to be more comfortable and affordable. In other words, Vetements for spring summer 2016 is rather an expansion of the last season’s wardrobe than a new idea. But in reality, it absolutely made the collection be more desirable, just like the cowboy boots or sock heels.

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Photography by Chloé Le Drezen

Women Connection. Rick Owens SS16

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Without much effort, but only thanks to his vision, Rick Owens‘ shows are always most surprising during Paris Fashion Week. And this time, the designer did not disappoint. After the Estonian heavy-metal group performing on the runway and Brooklyn-based dancers dancing in their own, energetic style, Rick invited local, Parisian gymnasts to become… human back-packs. But, this shouldn’t be treated us a performance to be laughed at – serenity, grace and power of the way these women carried another, looking strong in Owens’ airy silhouettes, was disturbing, but beautiful. As the designer suggested, it represented the conncection between the women he dresses, knows and is constantly inspired by. And, “This Land is Mine” performed by Eska (Owen’s personal Beyonce) during the show made it the most emotionally filled collection of the season. And what’s interesting, the collection was based on plus size models – so, this means that the traditional clothes sized were in ranged from traditional model’s standard to the gymnast’s bodies.“I feel I haven’t done enough to accommodate them (plus size people). It’s hard to create a corner for people who might never come to me for that but I’m trying to find a way… I love a big girl who owns it unapologetically. Enjoy your juiciness.” Rick Owens knows how to effectively steal the spotlight, without pointless extras.

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Motorcycle Trip. AF Vandevorst SS16

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 A lineup of 25-strong muscle bikes appeared backstage – Harleys and Triumphs surrounded the Faculté de Médecine Paris Descartes a few days ago in Paris. One thing was sure before the show started – this collection will be a fast ride. A.F. Vandevorst and their spring-summer 2016 attitude is literally about the biker girl, her wardrobe and her gang. An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx explained pre-show: “It’s a road trip by a woman who lives in the East and has traveled to the West.” Hence the beautifully embroidered dresses and embellished details, that give an orient-spirited impression. The idea of mixing the hand-made craftsmanship with leather biker jackets and heavy textiles is not only deeply rooted in A.F. Vandevorst’s inspirations, that are brought from their exotic trips – also, it’s their deep love for rock & roll. By looking at this great collection, you have a feeling that the Vandevorst woman is not the one to mess with – however, she is ready for adventures that await her in the future.

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Modern Softness. Paco Rabanne SS16

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Julien Dossena looked at the heritage of Paco Rabanne from a totally different side this season. It rather feels more him, than Rabanne. The collection is designed for a modern girl – however, it’s much more feminine than the built-up looks we’ve seen last season. The fresh, summer outing was all about the high-tech sportiness with a sense of casual sexiness. Baby doll dresses walked alongside motocross-influenced leathers; the graphical prints on tank-tops had the Native American feeling about them. Definitely, Julien introduced a more slouchy festival attitude to the brand, rather than continuing Rabanne’s futuristic strictness and rawness. The textiles are softer in comparison to the signature Paco chain-dresses and the woman reflecting the brand changed.

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Freedom. Chloe SS16

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Freedom! 90’s! – these are the ideas behind Clare Waight Keller‘s best and most succesful collection at Chloe. This collection made me suddenly love the #ChloeGirl! It’s so beautiful and carefree… and comfortable! Inspired with women who defined the 90’s, Chloe for SS16 is a powerful nod to the decade. The show-notes consisted of a list of first names: Kate, Courtney, Corinne. Kate Moss, Courtney Love, Corinne Day. These names whisper of cool Britannia: where, away from Spice Girls glam, fashion was falling in love with the imperfection of a new style of fashion photography, and an unconventional way of wearing clothes. These three women that have their influence up to now, were imagined by Waight Keller wearing silk tracksuits, boho dresses and multi-coloured sweaters.

Taking a look at the details of these very feminine clothes, you can spot sensual lace elements, light sheer textiles and lovely tassels which appeared to be drifting in the air when the models gracefully walked the runway. Also, denim’s reign is continuing. Last season, everybody was obsessed with Chloe’s denim jackets – now, the ultimately chic shorts become the most coveted item of Paris Fashion Week. Just like colourful tops. Or the slip-tops that again make us all miss favourite summer evenings. well-done, Clare.

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