Silk Fragility. Haider Ackermann SS15

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As usual, Haider. You steal the spotlight of Parisian Fashion Week, without having a lot of effort. The summer created by Haider Ackermann is all about flesh-tone silks, backless knitwear and come-undone tailorings. Over-sized sweaters, cool vests, beautiful, blush pink trousers and magical, lilac capes- it all felt like a delicate, breezy summer in Paris. Stiff glossy leather belts orbited skin-tone satin tops and sharp, shoulder-skimming playsuits, while gathered chiffon blouses – slashed to the navel, were loosely tucked into low-slung trousers complete with sporty, racing stripes. Fans of the label’s more androgynous cuts will no doubt be inspired by the sleeveless crepe jackets, floor-length trench-coats and waistcoat tops. Haider Ackermann always ends up on my Parisian favourites. And this dreamy, ethereal surely classifies as one of the most wearable creations yet bt Ackermann. In love with the master-layering as much as in the whole collection. J’adore!

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Feather Beauty. A.F. Vandevorst SS15

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My favourite Belgian label, A.F. Vandevorst, has just shown a magical collection. Keeping it a bit military, the designer couple introduced beautiful silhouttes and fabric. An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx had come up with a story, about a female pilot flying around the world who parachutes into terra incognita and begins exploring. Which is to say, Vandevorst and Arickx were riffing on parachutes and flight suits, a theme sledgehammered home by the rather extraordinary opening gown of what looked like parachute silk, with a train nearly the length of the runway. The models wore non-chalant gowns, wrapped jackets, red suits, very “natural” head covers and feather embroideries. And these ones were reall amazing. A.F. Vandevorst decorated the whole gown with feathers, making it look couture. But the simple shape of it made it feel (and look) very comfortable. Amazing.

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Memories. Maison Martin Margiela SS15

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Wet. The models were literally wet during the Maison Martin Margiela show. What else felt “wow” in this collection? Hand-painted daisies on skirts and over-sized sunglasses. And the print mash-up with oriental kimono-like cut-outs. What was the idea, motif of the idea? No idea. But it felt attractive, a bit perverse and very mysterious. It feels elusive and totally Margiela.

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Under The Palm Tree. Isabel Marant SS15

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“My girl’s got a city to run,” Vampire Weekend frontman Ezra Koenig intones on SBTRKT’s “New Dorp. New York.”, the soundtrack to the Isabel Marant show, and the collection is all about that woman. A city girl in tailored but textural shapes, accented with elements from her travels to Africa and exotic islands. Tailored trousers and pleated, tiered mini skirts mixed with knitted shag coats and fringed tabarts, wrapped and tied at the waist. Maybe that wasn’t the best Isabel Marant collection, but you can’t say it was bad. It was french, and it felt like a good take on beach walk. It was very Parisienne, and at the same time ethnical.

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Fashion History. Dior SS15

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The music was so bad, that Anna Wintour run away in the middle of the show, screaming “horrible fashion”. Well. Half that’s true. The music certainly was bad, and the clothes were also not really good… Raf Simons continues the same idea as during his last couture- to show history of fashion changing throughout one show. First we had medival gowns, pilgrim caftans. Then, lady-like skirt-and-tops. At the end, cosmic jumpsuits. Mostly all-white collection, with few drops of red velvet and blue tulle, felt for me not so good. It kind of didn’t have this thing that Raf usually brings to Dior. This modernity of past or how he calls it, starts to be boring. And I still can’t forgive the shoes. They looked to heavy, and destroyed nearly all looks. I don’t want to hate, but this thing doesn’t work on me. Hope Dior is not falling down again…

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