Parasols de Marseille. Jacquemus SS15

September 23, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Cheer up! It’s the super cute Jacquemus collection! Stripes, dots, smiles… it’s all about the happy beach summer in Marseille, with colourful umbrellas and comfortable white shirts… and more. For his fourth, runway collection, Simon Jacquemus showed a very strong and good thing- he keeps true to his naive, cute style. White shirt, white socks, white Adidas. And a bit of boldness in posture of stripes and other fun shapes. This time, Jacquemus showed some body in his looks- a bit of leg, a bit of shoulder. And the wet hair simply reflected the summer mood! In other words- these pieces just make us want summer to come as fast as possible! L’Ete pour toujours! (pardon my french)

The Logo. Anthony Vaccarello SS15

September 23, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

First Paris Fashion Week show, and first impression. Anthony Vaccarello does logo. Even the wonder-boy of sex-appeal got touched by logo mania (read: commercialism). “Letters as a sharp graphism on the body. A wild, urban way to dress. I will be featuring prints for the first time in my collection.” Oh, I see. That’s why we’ve got the sweatshirts with A N T H O N Y V A C C A R R E L L O sign opened the show. Then we had also some very Versace-esque slim gowns (possibly an influence from Anthony’s SS15 Versus Versace debut in New York, earlier this month) with huge, gross A’s and V’s. But I still loved the leather pieces. And the skirts giving some leg to the models (like Mica Arganaraz or Binx Walton). This part felt much more Vaccarello-ish than the seriously Vaccarello-ed stuff.

The Best of AW14

September 1, 2014September 1, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

My number one this season is Haider Ackermann. His beautiful fall was dark, elusive and very Parisienne. Models wore masculine coats and trousers, slim maxi dresses, over-sized shirts and leather jackets. This collection is the quintessence of chic.

Celine had the cool non-chalance in it. Phoebe Philo brought us fur muffs, kimonos, over-sized tunics and sleek coats, making the collection extremely casual with these fabulous, patent leather clogs. As usually, it’s one of my favourites.

Tibi from New York had the best ponchos of the season! Styled with black mules, Amish hats and black midi skirt, the label had one of the most great looks in the whole season. And many other pieces are still having a spotlight…

Dries Van Noten was all about stripes, colour and florals. It had a lot of coolness in it- a midi skirt worn with a orange skirt was never so interesting and sophisticated!

Miuccia Prada as usually brought Prada the most outstanding pieces of the season. Shearling jackets, cricket v-neck sweaters, Bauhaus inspired heels, monkey fur dress, bags with chains… and many, many more.

I have a special place in my heart for that Acne collection. It’s fresh, Scandinavian vibe and tribal printed culottes are simply amazing. And of course the exaggerated hats! You want get a cold wearing one of them, that’s a sure thing!

Louis Vuitton has Nicolas Ghesquiere right now, and his debutant collection was simply it. 40’s & 60’s fashion come back with huge steps. And all these boots are a must-have, just like the Petit Malle clutches.

Yohji Yamamoto’s winter collection is the most unwearable and most fantastic of all. The cocoon coats with those hand painted manga illustration are not clothes any more, but art.

N.21 by Allesandro Dell Acqua was very Italian. It has three key pieces- a cozy, wool sweater, an embroidered, midi skirt and pointy polished flats. And nothing else.

The relaxed Marc Jacobs collection was my favourite from New York. It was all head in clouds, with these pastel colours, v-cuts, solemn and pale faces of models and Jessica Lange attitude.

These were my 10 favourite AW14 collections… and on the 4th, officially, the NYFW starts with SS15! Yay!

Celine’s AW14 Jewellery

August 4, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Phoebe Philo’s Celine jewellery line rules. One ear earring that looks like a mini chandelier; then the crystal over-sized bracelets in olive, khaki, purple and blue are so damn good. Maybe these pieces aren’t the most minimalistic and casual, but surely one of these bracelets will steal he spotlight of the whole evening outfit.

Men Behind

July 27, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

While searching 2002 in fashion, I found the first runway collection by Rick Owens. The mood of Owens’ presentation was somber—a dark, raw space and a sound track of Alice Cooper and Iggy Pop—but the clothes were gently sexy and even cozy. Not one for color (despite his indigenous climate), Owens worked in grays, chalky white, black and taupe. Long clinging dresses were paired with fuzzy ankle-length sweater coats, while soft, baggy corduroy pants looked great with the distressed leather jackets the designer is known for.But all those greys and forms reminded me of something- the latest Haider Ackermann collection for women. His AW14 was totally like the description of Rick’s in 2002, but a bit more romantic and soft. I love both of these, and I can’t say that Haider copied Rick- rather, he was inspored by him and his first dark fashion moment.