Men’s: Boheme. Haider Ackermann SS15

June 26, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Pleasingly, Haider Ackermann didn’t dissapoint us with his recent men collection. The male boheme continues and for good! Knowing well Andalusian-gypsy style Haider gives us each season in his presentation, the SS15 is just the cherry on the top of a cake. A rich yet dusty, jewel-hued color palette of pieces layered together in a nonchalant way that must have taken hours to get just right. All the velvet varsity jackets, jacquard drop crotch pants, fitted vests over loose shirting, chinoiserie silk dressing gown coats, and long looping scarves closely echoed the personal style of the designer himself. Although, the easy inclusion of Saskia de Brauw and Liya Kebede into the mix of male models proved that the pieces had real cross over potential.

Men’s: Voyage. Christophe Lemaire SS15

June 26, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Voyage au bout de la nuit from Charlotte Gainsbourg’s song Voyage is the perfect song that matches the mood of Christophe Lemaire’s SS15 collection which was one of the best ones. Discreet millionaire, chic traveler, man who knows what’s luxury to him: these are the three ways I would describe this beautiful collection. The simple pajamas, beige tracksuits and safari suits with these rectangular pockets are my favourite. Christophe Lemaire simply got me on his eponymous and elusive way of being in fashion.

Sporty. Paco Rabanne Resort’15

June 20, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Julien Dossena is just the right thing for Paco Rabanne. He does exactly this, what Nicolas Ghesquiere did at Balenciaga. Julien brings this futuristic Parisian house back to its rise, in a more sophisticated and 21st century way… For resort 2015 which was styled by designer’s friend, Marie Amelie Sauve, Dossena introduced a new level of sporty elegance. Strongly coloured tank tops with straps worn with pencil skirts and polished sweatpants styled with interesting tops. And of course Julien’s signature thing: the V cut! It was on the skirts, on the blouses… Maybe the new Paco Rabanne doesn’t remind us the Space Odyssey, but you need to admit- there is something extremely futuristic about it.

Motor Babe. Sonia Rykiel Resort’15

June 17, 2014June 18, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Change is in the air with Julie de Libran on the horizon as the new creative director at Sonia Rykiel. But for now, for the last collection, Geraldo da Conceicao did a pretty good job. This not-so-famous designer worked two years at this Parisian label and for his Resort 2015 he really rocked. As the line-up progressed, the silhouettes progressed softened significantly- and to winning effect. Updating house signatures, Geraldo put a modern twist on sparkly lurex seperates and gauzy shirtdresses. Also we had these beautiful V-neck tennis blouses and bourgeois brocade trousers. It’s worth to mention about the motorcycles… that did’t have anything really to do with the house legacy. They were just there (like the car themed styling and helmets). As Conceicao said, Madama Rykiel wasn’t a motor babe, but he imagined her riding a motorcycle, smoking a cigarette and having lots of fun! Yes, maybe Geraldo didn’t do anything amazing at Rykiel, but surely he made the house shine again. And hopefully Julie de Libran will continue his bright vision for this sensual, soft St. Germain-based brand!

Romance. Lanvin Resort’15

June 15, 2014June 18, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

I observed that I usually prefer the pre-collections at Lanvin rather than the runway shows. Why? I love their mood! The resort for 2015 is just the real Lanvin thing- very Parisienne, non-chalant and romantic. The model Jamie Bochert matches perfectly to the slightly bohemique style of the pieces! Full of beige, red, brown and black, we had a lot of foulards, embroideries and fabulously decorated dresses and pants. Alber Elbaz made me again fall in true French love!