That was pretty unexpected from that eponymous, known for colour-blocking, label. Cedric Charlier took us into his darker side within the AW14 collection- dark, gloomy hair that looks perfect with all these clothes: simple coats, beige dresses, fur jackets and detailed top look like a good match. Although I didn’t understand this grey jumpsuit that isn’t a jumpsuit, I definitely love most the creme midi skirt with that structured top- it’s great for a everyday routine and a night out. Charlier not only hits the on-line stores, but also emerges into important Parisian designer- so better keep an eye on him!
Paris
Sexy Paris. Anthony Vaccarello AW14
Anthony Vaccarello showed one of the best collection of his account- that was literally, very him. The collection was full of sex appeal- leather mini dresses; feminine ruffles; sharp cuts giving some leg and many other aspects making the collection one of the brave ones. There were also some incredible black shirling jackets and rays of strong, red colour! But who really stole the spotlight was Anja Rubik, who wore a sheer blouse and a black cape! That moment got me shake. This is certainly a Parisienne dose of the night.
HC: VIKTOR & ROLF SS14
Viktor & Rolf took as to a new, elevated level of Haute Couture. First of all… the models were real ballerinas. Styled as zombie-dolls dancing around the runway, Viktor & Rolf made a great performance (and just remind yourself AW13’s couture done by VF… meditation and zen were the main keywords). The collection was made only of latex- the nude coloured dresses, skirts and bustiers looked a bit sinister and scary… just like the eerie hair that the ballerinas had on! Definitely, if talking of fashion entertainment, Viktor & Rolf as usually marks all the points.
HC: VALENTINO SS14
“Fifty-five looks for fifty-five operas. The Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were after something new for Couture this season, and they found it in the age-old tradition of opera. The show opened with a nod to La Traviata; Giuseppe Verdi’s score was embroidered in black on the long, full skirt of a parchment-colored tulle dress. By the end, they had called out all the greats: Puccini’s La Bohème inspired an elegant navy cashmere cape and silk crepe sheath. Bizet’sCarmen produced a pleated bronze tulle gown with silver-gray guipure lace embroideries”. And I loved the animals. Magnifique!
HC: MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA SS14
The Margiela team again made some magic for Haute Couture season. And this is a real black magic. Eyes, embroidery, fur, stripes, kimonos, canvas, sequins… art. The SS14 couture for Maison Martin Margiela meant recreating vintage “stuff” into a new, imaginery whole. The collection was about show girls- the tatoo looking like embroidered vest with these sexy pantalons. About illusion- eyes on the veils and handcuffs covered with fur. Brain activity and ancient cultures. So much different things simply touch them selves at Margiela. This is the world of artinasal fashion where nothing is impossible. That definitely was the most amazing couture of the season.
Design & Culture by Ed 