HC: ATELIER VERSACE SS14

January 20, 2014October 10, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

In few words about Donatella Versace’s ‘fantastic’ creation for SS14’s Couture season. Taking Azzedine Alaia’s biggest hits like the Grace Jones purple gown, and making it more Barbie by putting crystals and diamonds on it is not creativity. It’s copying. I understand young designers like Olivier Rousting orAnthony Vaccarello who are inspired by Alaia- they look for new in old. But Donatella? It’s even not Gianni legacy. The collection was so horribly #rich-bish-champagne-cool… that even Lady Gaga -who took photos with every guest like Abercombie&Fitch boys on the entrance to the store- couldn’t help it. Maybe less glitter puke but more… Real Versace couture?

Men’s: Skinny. Saint Laurent AW14

January 20, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Who could end men’s fashion month in such unique style? Only Hedi Slimane, that leads Saint Laurent to total grunge destruction. The AW14 collection is very… hard. Some pieces are very cool, and some more affordable for a rockstar! Take the green sequin suit; or the leopard printed bomber jacket. Or even these creepers ‘on fire. Hedi knows what he wants and moves into his direction- the rock’n’roll era, that inspires him so much. If my size would be XS and I would have such skinny legs as the models here, then I would definitely love everything. But while I am certainly not, then I don’t really feel the mood of the collection. However, from the crowd of elegant suites and coats, Slimane really catches my eye from the whole fashion week from Paris… See you for Haute Couture SS14!

Men’s: Beast. Thom Browne AW14

January 19, 2014January 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Thom Browne, the enfant terrible of New York have just presented his AW14 collection for men in Paris. In the grey forest full of wild animals, we met the man vs. beast fight- models wore highly tailored suits in abstract forms with bunny, elephant or deer masks, looking like creatures from fairy-tales. The collection was kept in misty grey colour, with lots of embroideries on jackets and trousers. The suites had some mis-proportions in them- too huge sleeves, to filled trousers… Nothing was normal. Not only Thom entertained us with all these illusions and tricks, but also took us to another dimension of tailorship, that he is so good in.

Men’s: Paris Chic. AMI AW14

January 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

AMI is the moment’s hottest label coming from Paris- it’s aim is to bring cool Parisian chic back to men’s wardrobe. As it’s their first runway collection (the venue was a snowy park), it was really buzzy. And not only because of the guest model, Caroline de Maigret, who wore a tuxedo in super chic way. The collection itself was fantastic, full of vibrant red colour and comfortable pieces that every men ought to have. My favourite- the totally camel look. This is a perfection.

René Gruau. Dior Pre-Fall’14

January 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

This super cute collection by Raf Simons for Dior reminds me too bad of Laduree macarons and the smell of Parisian perfumeries. With beautifully ilustrated dresses by Rene Gruau from 40’s, this collection is definitely one of the best from Raf. The coats in pastel colours, the poncho mixed with a graphic shirt and the new versions of Miss Dior bags match my taste a lot. And I love how Simons takes archives back to present- in his way, it feels much more fresh and artistic.