Distingué. Rochas AW14

February 26, 2014February 26, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Aah, what a magnificent collection was that, Mr. Dell Acqua! The Italian designer of best-selling No.21 just got the old, a bit forgotten Parisian label into his hands- Rochas, which was designed before by Marco Zanini. The debut collection for fall 2014 is very elegant, chic, avant-garde… The yellow gloves matched with embroidered gowns, embellished lacquered shirts with signature Dell AcQua shiny details, coats looking like cardigans… And that gold dress was ALL- so flawless and chic. I must admit, that Alessandro, although Italian, got perfectly what the Parisian chic is- mysterious, elusive, a bit innocent. That collection, with Malgosia Bela at start and finale, surely got my heart- just like No.21, which seems to be more commercial.

Radieux. Dries Van Noten AW14

February 26, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

That was so… unexpected! Dries Van Noten showed the most bright, radiant and vibrant collection to date in his career! The AW14 was all about orange, orchid, flowerd, Hawaii, sequins, stripes… It was loud, it was fun. And those over-sized silhouttes. They are so Le Marais. There was also a interesting illusionist touch- geometrical coats in silver & black are a must-have. But- one question comes up- is still winter? Ok, furs. However, furs are on every summer collection of Prada. And it’s pretty hard to imagine all these island resort elements in winter… Who cares. It’s cool and surely will be a hit when hits the stores.

Séduisant. Christophe Lemaire AW14

February 26, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Christophe Lemaire is not really known in the world, although he is the creative director of Hermes. But this is not the thing- when I think of Lemaire, I think of the seductive Hitchcock woman, who always look sensual and fragile. And these AW14 clothes are just it- simple, but sexy. Jumpers tied around necks, loosely worn coats, knitted dresses, dark colours. Not only woman can look attractive in these pieces- they seem to be great for a date, night out or even… home relax. Effortless. Wearable. Delicate.

Femme Enfant. Jacquemus AW14

February 26, 2014October 29, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Simon Porte Jacquemus is the moments most interesting and hopeful designer of Paris- his AW13 was setted on a Parisian swimming pool. SS14 was all about French beach relax and Grand Motte. And the new AW14 is… infantile. But with a taste. Inspired with his childhood toys and childish behaviours, Simon created a perfect collection for women who feel ethernally young. The fabrics used were also simbolizing youth- neoprene, hand embroidered smocks and very DIY object of daily use- clips. What I really loved, were the colours- pigeon blue, strong yellow, citrus red. And of course the signature of Jacquemus- white socks with white trainers. Old-time Parisian friends! Voulez-vous d’avoir du plaisir maintenant?

Chic. Cedric Charlier AW14

February 25, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

That was pretty unexpected from that eponymous, known for colour-blocking, label. Cedric Charlier took us into his darker side within the AW14 collection- dark, gloomy hair that looks perfect with all these clothes: simple coats, beige dresses, fur jackets and detailed top look like a good match. Although I didn’t understand this grey jumpsuit that isn’t a jumpsuit, I definitely love most the creme midi skirt with that structured top- it’s great for a everyday routine and a night out. Charlier not only hits the on-line stores, but also emerges into important Parisian designer- so better keep an eye on him!