Yesterday when I saw Vika’s Gazinskaya new collection for autumn-winter I fell in love with her. Vika is a Russian seriously talented designer that is known for street style aestethics, graphical prints and minimalistic silhouttes. This season it was pretty mature with a youth vibe that gave these little foxy muppets! Lots of beautiful coats, paper jewellery (Gazinskaya classics), leather, ruffles were seen. And what’s more, in the lookbook the model that wore the clothes was standing in real snow and had a deep, dark forest behind her… This collection is so beautiful and awesome. Love it. And you?
The fox topic was my favourite one in collection. You can chose from a muppet scarf or a mini fashionable fox costume! And thanks god, Vika is more eco, opposite to Ulyana Sergeenko, and uses faux fur! So no harm! And effect? Even better than with real fur.
Sad that Vika together with her fashion Russian mafia- Miroslava Duma, Elena Perminova and Anya Zhiorouvna- already show all the clothes during fashion week… There was no real surprise unfortunately, but still, Vika Gazinskaya is a great designer.
Paris
Marc’s Pyjama Party
Marc Jacobs, creative director of Louis Vuitton, Marc by Marc Jacobs and his own line Marc Jacobs, always knows how to draw attention to himself. And he did at always during different fashion weeks. First in New York, Jacobs presented Marc by Marc Jacobs, and ran out at the end of the show in blue/green pyjama and white sneakers. At Marc Jacobs, he had a more elegant pyjama- violet/brown from jacquard. And on the top of all, after Louis Vuitton in Paris, Marc wore a specially made pyjama with the recent LV menswear collection print.
Why is Marc wearing them? There is no real answer, only he knows why. But I’ve got hypothesis that because all the collection he designed had something “pyjama” in them- at MJ very elegant and stylish; at LV more boudoir and vintage- Marc Jacobs wanted to show with all his body, that he feels the pyjama v
Boudoir. Louis Vuitton AW13
I’m a bit disappointed with Marc this time. He really did leftovers from his Marc Jacobs label that was like three weeks ago on NYFW. Some pieces were very similar, as well as hairstyles. Everything looked like a tone of really good, hand made pyjamas, but in a more sexy way. Unfortunately it some how didn’t made me stunned. And this a problem- Marc Jacobs do his line and Louis Vuitton, but he designs them same. He uses his fresh ideas on Marc Jacobs in NY and his leftovers in Paris. But maybe that’s a bit better because LV can’t be bought on-line and MJ can be bought. The other thing is that LV is three times more expensive!
Still everything was kept in Parisian way. Fur and Art Nouveau flowers were here and a stunning interior was present. The models were coming out on a huge corridor from their rooms, were luggages and hologram men were sitting. And who was there to make everything hotter? Of course Kate Moss, that was walking in a silk dress with flowers on it. Looked strange with black hair but who cares?
So, bye bye Paris Fashion Week and all other fashion weeks! All were great! Soon a summary!
Church Anglicans. McQueen AW13
There were only ten looks from whole collection that can be forgived because Sara Burton has new twins! Congratulations! And why forgive? Because the collection was so beautiful and really haute couture, and I would love it longer. It was a continuation of Pre-Fall collection that was full of church inspirations. This time Burton divided the ten into five subgroups: Communion, nuns, cardinals, popes, and angels. In a scarcely believable but timely twist for McQueen, Britain’s most senior Catholic cardinal has just stepped down in the wake of one of those sex scandals that endlessly plague the Vatican in the twilight of its domain.
The dresses were so amazing! Lots of embroidery, silk, pearls, gold, ornaments… Ah, so baroque and opulent! It was luxurious but not RTW! That’s for sure. But I love it so much. And the interior of runway? An old palace with lots of decorations and rich lamps!
The Netherlands. Valentino AW13
I never wrote about Valentino in the past, because it always seemed to me boring and without any vigour. But this time it was totally another. What I loved, there were so much inspirations! And mostly from Netherlands, where these things are common. The collection started with models wearing black dresses with collars and a ponytail hair in the front. After looking at the moodboard of Valentino, that had to be inspired with nuns costumes! Pretty religious! And then the dresses camre in indigo colour. For sure, the new red is blue colour at Valentino!
What more: there was the print of known around the world Delftwere blue porcelain! It’s hand painted in a small city Delft in Holland. It was used in amazing way on dresses, tops and trousers. In reality there was a lot of flower tapestry that is Velentino’s classic. What I loved, is that there was a lot of modernity in few dresses- these with semicircles on shoulders and sides. And I like it!
Design & Culture by Ed 