She Knows. Maryam Nassir Zadeh AW25

August 9, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Maryam Nassir Zadeh has just released her autumn–winter 2025 lookbook, and it instantly makes you start thinking about September dressing and all its layering-perfect charms. Maryam is one of those instinctive designers who effortlessly create not fleeting trends, but new “ways” of dressing. The New York–based designer offers pieces as simple yet utterly chic as a mini fur scarf – designed for both women and men – tied loosely around the neck and styled nonchalantly with oversized suits or bubblegum-pink blousons. There’s a lot of tying in this collection: from a cummerbund-shaped, bi-color belt cinched over pleated trousers to a strapped bonnet – its silhouette a nostalgic nod to 1920s headwear – Nassir Zadeh treats accessories as objects to play with. Even the fringed-belt-slash-skirt can be worn with ease beneath a teddy-bear jacket and over a pair of warm tights. She just knows.

GET THE LOOK:

Pologeorgis Lamb Shearling Fur Scarf

TOTEME Faux Fur Scarf

Saint Laurent Ribbon Faux Fur Scarf

Gorski Select Lamb Pull-Through Scarf

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Part Of Me. JW Anderson Resort 2026

August 1, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Come September, an utterly new iteration of JW Anderson will materialize. With a thoroughly-considered decision of stopping runway shows and fully rebrand brick-and-mortar shops (and open new ones across Milan, New York and London), Jonathan Anderson is about to revolutionize the way we think about fashion brands. “It’s going to be about: this is how I live. This is my world, what I collect, that’s part of me.” The designer – who’s now leading Dior – has created, as he likes to call it, a “blunt” environment where his own clothes – and others that are locally sourced – will sit alongside a plethora of things such as traditional Irish tea-towels, a Welsh blanket, hand-crafted stick chairs, a tiny still life by Gwen John, a set of restored vintage garden tools (instant must-have!), and even a selection of crotcheted, very British bird keyring charms. The stores will be restocked according to demand, and will of course offer all-time JW Anderson classics: argyle knits, cargo pants, witty denim, cheeky accessories. They are modeled in the latest lookbook by creatives the designer collaborates with and admires a lot: Luca Guadagnino, Bella Freud, Anthea Hamilton, Ben Wishaw and Pol Anglada, to name just a few. Anderson’s brave, bold, new IRL shop strategy will hopefully start a new wave of love and appreciation of brick-and-mortar experiences. Remember concept stores? They might be back very soon.

ED’s SELECTION:

JW Anderson Embellished Suede Loafers

JW Anderson Teacup Leather-trimmed Crocheted Bag Charm

JW Anderson Rugby Cotton-jersey Polo Shirt

JW Anderson Cotton-canvas Jacket

JW Anderson Pleated Printed Twill Mini Skirt

JW Anderson Victoria Sponge Resin Clutch

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Poison Ivy. ERL SS26

July 28, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Eli Russell Linnetz just knows what’s right in the moment. Actually, he creates the moment. Fashion’s current obsession with vintage American prep? ERL did that seasons ago, and created a contemporary playbook dedicated to that trope. Flip-flops? The shoe of the season in the Californian designer’s hands became a whole new statement. Now, Linnetz is ready to explore codes of classical menswear and (poisonous) masculinity. Argyle sweaters, cotton boxers, and grandpa-style knits all got the ERL treatment for spring-summer 2026, with deliberate proportion updates (tapering at the waist, tight at the biceps, and stretched across the chest). The relaxed tailoring could easily be an object of Aldo Fallai’s Giorgio Armani campaigns in the 1980s. But through Linnetz’s lens – literally, because he shoots all the ERL visuals – you can perceive something slightly disturbing, yet absolutely elusive about Christian and Ivy’s, the look-book’s heroes, dynamic. Christian is the king of campus, and Ivy would give anything to be around him – or be him, rather, in “The Talented Mr. Ripley” kind of way. Linnetz’s story follows Ivy as he embeds himself into Christian’s inner circle, with his admiration turning sour and then poisonous, subsequently culminating in an act of violence. Now imagine giving Eli Russell an opportunity to not only design costumes, but also direct a feature film. Cooper Koch could easily be the lead act.

ED’s SELECTION:

ERL Men’s Striped Jersey T-Shirt

ERL Men’s Indiana Baggy Jeans

ERL Cropped Ribbed-knit Cardigan

COS Eva Flip Flops

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Phoebe Philo Collection D

July 23, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

I was just about to (finally) start writing my Venice guide when I saw a new email in my inbox: Collection D. This could only mean one thing – Phoebe Philo had dropped the preview of her new collection on a random Tuesday, off-schedule, without warning. Sometimes, Mercury retrograde brings good things too.

Spontaneous things are the best things. Whether it’s travel, making art, or cooking, letting yourself act on an untamed impulse often delivers (and rewards with) the most satisfaction. It seems to me that Philo has relearned how to let herself go. Her latest collection marks a sharp departure from the strictness and control that defined her earlier namesake offerings. Even the lookbook’s warm lighting and the models’ relaxed poses signal a vibe shift, a mood swing into… joy. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Sleeping Beauties. Valentino Resort 2026

July 20, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

There are days when all you want is to lounge around and feel like Lana Del Rey in her “Honeymoon” era. Dreamy, otherworldly, a bit of a baddie. Alessandro Michele certainly had one of those moments while working on Valentino‘s resort 2026 collection, photographed on literal sleeping beauties. FYI: his vintage-inspired dresses not only look great on red carpets and concert stages, but also in bed.

The new collection sees Michele re-looking the codes straight out of Valentino Garavani’s archive: look 1 offered a ruched Valentino-red minidress, its bodice pleats gathered in frontal cutouts just as Garavani used to do. And the bow, another Garavani favorite, dotted everything from hems to heeled mules like a frivolous punctuation mark. On the decorative side, gobelin-like tapestries were crafted into boxy waistcoats trimmed with feathers and fringed micro shorts. Elsewhere Michele’s urge for embellishment was interrupted by slender and elegant evening gowns in plain soft pastels or classic black. Meanwhile, the menswear took cues from the style of Parisian students who took part in 1968 protests, a theme Michele often gravitates towards in his work. A child of the bourgeoisie, out in the streets, looking for love.

P.s. The Valentino clients should really take a look at Alessandro’s accessories, especially bags: he knows how to turn a heirloom from grandmother’s closet into a modern-day treasure. I’m absolutely obsessed with all the heavily-embroidered, fringed satchels.