For The Walkers. Ganni SS19

August 11, 2018August 11, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Indisputably, Ganni made Copenhagen fashion week a thing. Today, Danish designers and brands are nearly as important as the names we know from the four capitals – New York, London, Milan and Paris. Just see how many people you follow on Instagram went to Copenhagen this week! There’s even the Danish it-girls clique, that has a distinct, eclectic look. I mean the most unprecedented (and sometimes simply ridiculous) combinations of floral tea-dress, plastic bags, hair scrunchies and kitschy, vintage mules.

But back to the topic. Ganni’s spring-summer 2019 was the show that every ‘influencer’ went to. This clothing label, founded by wife-and-husband duo Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup, brings an alternative version of Scandinavian style – a ‘no no’ to cold minimalism. Ditte, who is the creative director, likes florals, slip dresses, ruffles and big knits, and tends to balance all those with heavy, off-duty accessories. Shortly, Ganni follows every trend alert, does good styling tricks and keeps it all quite affortable (the price point is slightly below Acne Studios). That’s why I’m on fence with the label’s phenomenon – it’s not as much fashion, as a thoroughly considered image of the so-called ‘Ganni girl’. Spring-summer 2019 wasn’t different in that aspect. Inspired by camping and travelling by foot in overall, Ganni went for bucket hats, sporty outerwear (made in collaboration with 66 North), trekking boots, prairie dresses, dyed denim and camo backpacks. The venue, done under the direction of Ana Kras (you might know her as @teget on Instagram), as well suggested something connected to travelling: cars and boats covered with nylon canvas, and the huge space filled with transport containers. It all worked, and you surely will want to pull off every second look next summer. But somehow, I can’t help, but think of Ganni as of a very Instagrammable and undemanding label.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Prettiness. Cecilie Bahnsen SS19

August 10, 2018August 10, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Cloudy. Soft. Fragile. The Beguilded cast’s wardrobe in 2018. Feminine. Light. Should I continue with other phrases and associations I’ve got with Cecilie Bahnsen’s fashion? The designer has just presented her collection during the Copenhagen fashion week and made it clear that no one else does a dress like her (well, except for Molly Goddard). Cecilie likes her silhouettes to be full, but not overwhelming – no dramatic ball gowns here, but rather everyday-princess ensembles to love and wear. Pouf sleeves and peplums are always on Bahnsen’s runway, just like spaghetti straps. For spring-summer 2019, she as well added a bit of florals and the very unexpected dad sandals, which well balanced all that prettiness. At one point of browsing the collection, you might feel that you’re seeing the same dress, just in different modifications. Well, this repetitiveness isn’t to the Danish designer’s disadvantage. There’s consistency flowing from one collection to the other, which is especially valued among emerging designers. Wait, but can we call Bahnsen a classical case of an emerging designer? If only every big brand could boast with so many sold out dresses in every single, major on-line store…

Collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Party Girl. Saint Laurent Pre-Fall 2018

July 24, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

She’s a party girl – that’s quite clear once you look at Anthony Vaccarello‘s pre-fall 2018 look-book for Saint Laurent, and the attitude of the woman he envisions. That transitional wardrobe is meant to be classically YSL, but suited for contemporary times. We’ve got bohemian blouses, velvet Le Smoking blazers, leopard spots all over platform boots, studded leather miniskirts, gold lamé minidress – the list goes on. With the ‘Mick Jagger in Morocco’ look, wearing non-chalantly tied shawls and embroidered vests, Mica Arganaraz and Jamie Bochert are like a match-made-in-heaven for this look-book.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

That Woman. Hillier Bartley Resort 2019

July 21, 2018July 20, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

What’s Hillier Bartley like for resort 2019? Well, it’s definitely not about one aesthetic or any central idea. Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier chose to play with their signatures (chic loungewear, for instance) this season, adding some very unexpected twists to the collection. Distorted, Saville-Row-esque tailoring styled with thick turtlenecks or coming in emerald silk; equally deconstructed shirts with, what it seems, clashed double sleeves; tie-dyed, high-rise pants. The enormously big taffeta bows on pencil skirts and strapless tops had something of fancy nightclubbing, straight out of the 80s, just like the latex pussy-bow piece. Oh, and of course that suit. “We call it the Brexit—or the anti-Brexit—suit,” said Bartley. “I don’t know where it came from, but it felt right”. Accessories, that are largely Hillier’s job, span from the classic bunny clutch (in new colours) to boxy Cassette, a bag injected with lovely, vintage feeling.

Conclusion: what’s most fascinating about Hillier Bartley – the brand exists for few seasons now – is that the designers created a distinct look that can’t be mistaken with any other brand. You look and you know it’s the Hillier Bartley woman – mature, kind of mysterious, but not taking herself too seriously. She can go for both, a cocktail in the new posh spot, or sip beer in an old school pub.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Colour. Calvin Klein Resort 2019

July 20, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Raf Simons’ resort 2019 collection for Calvin Klein 205W93NYC feels like a remix. It’s a smooth continuation from the line’s remarkable autumn-winter 2018 collection (note the fireman jackets and heavy knits), a reminder of the designer’s classics for the brand (polished cowboy boots) and a start of something totally new. Colour blocking! The clingy, maxi-length knitted dresses in bold yellow, pink or blue are feminine, but not banal (and are an echo of Simons’ work for Jil Sander, which makes this addition even more special for the fans). That major play of colours jumped into menswear as well. Other than that, we’ve got America’s most renowned university logos, all over varsity jackets, handbags and pockets of blazers. Personally, I think that’s the weakest point of the collection, but the one that will sell best. Still, it’s consistent to Raf’s thorough examination of the Americana theme he moves every season, in various aspects. Pre-collections are not main collections, so you know, Raf couldn’t go too far. But it’s a proper balance of commercial and daring.