Camp. Comme Des Garçons AW18

March 8, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

In honour of International Women’s Day, taking a look at Comme Des Garçons autumn-winter 2018 is well advised. Rei Kawakubo is an icredible woman: she is assertive in everything she does, enigmatic, yet sharp. Her company is an empire (even though she would hate that word). Her main line of garments (counting of 16 this season) brings reflection and creativity in every sense of this word to fashion each season. This time, the spirit was more uplifting than usual. Actually, Rei was reading ‘Notes on Camp,’ Susan Sontag’s essay from 1964. As the author wrote, “Camp taste is, above all, a mode of enjoyment, not judgment. Camp is generous, it wants to enjoy. . . . Camp is a tender feeling.” The feeling is all over in here. Clashed clothes, camo with polka dots, sequins and mattresses, flowers and Betty Boop. Mix. Mash. Destroy. Create. Simply incredible.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Characters. Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood AW18

March 7, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood was a parade of characters: from Joan of Arc to haunted brides (and widows), that was a diverse outing. Vivienne and her partner, Andreas, enjoy studying the different and break any kind of stereotypes. Here, boys wore ball dresses, while girls nailed over-sized pirate jackets. Nearly everything would have been superb about this collection if not the fact that the label stole an idea, or two, from London’s emerging, young designers. Even though they have publicly apologized Rottingdean Bazaar and Louise Gray for using their prints and slogans without permission, I just can’t understand how the designers’ studio thought no one would notice that in the first place? I mean, if not Vivienne, many of those brands wouldn’t be here with their explosive attitude today. And now, who’s appropriating whom?

Still, the collection is a bomb.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Strange Times. Haider Ackermann AW18

March 7, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

“We’re going through strange times; I wanted to have this fragility, but [also] something very uplifting,” is how Haider Ackermann summed up his autumn-winter 2018 moment. Underneath the Ackermann classics – like draped coats in animal spots or masterfully tailored jackets – a blast of electric colours emerged in form of tights and matching boots. But there was something unfamiliarly feminine about the collection – just see the pastel pink midi-dress in velvet or the mustard frock. Still, they feel just fine in here – it’s nothing new that the designer knows how to combine colours. The woman that Haider portrays used to wear a protective armour for the past few seasons. Now, she goes against the flow in her badass mullet and bold, polished neons.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Refined. Nina Ricci AW18

March 6, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

So what’s the deal with Guillaume Henry at Nina Ricci? After seasons of working at the heritage brand, the designer was reported to leave due to the maison‘s underfunding. Then, Nina Ricci’s company responded to the news by denying Henry’s departure, just hours after the recent fashion show. Oh, that crazy fashion…

But still, would you say Ricci needs a new designer? Throughout those three years, Guillaume has changed the label into an exciting and very refined place for women seeking the ‘Parisian allure’ (if we really need to use a cliché). Shortly, those are delightful, beautiful dresses, coats and accessories. Although the autumn-winter 2018 collection indeed felt as if it was witnessing a budget cut comparing to the last seasons, it was… well, good. Even very good – see the fur coats; the chic trackpants; voluminous shirts. I think that’s the main problem with old houses being suddenly revived by investors. The owners want big profit, they want the brand to be on everybody’s lips – but is giving the right amount of time for the designer even taken under consideration? Worth consideration.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

To Cherish and Wear. Loewe AW18

March 6, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

What does Loewe‘s autumn-winter 2018 collection stands for? The balance between a working and private life. This woman might equally wear her grey shirt-dress to the office, as well as to her weekend house (that has a lovely chimney spot, by the way). Actually, Jonathan Anderson is about to deliver all the needs Phoebe Philo will no longer be here for next autumn – jaw-dropping shearling coats; sophisticated, yet comfortable eveningwear; business-smart tailoring and shirting. The last looks had something of curated artiness that Anderson likes to inject into the house. See the multi-coloured thread inserts and fringing present in the maxi-skirts and gowns. To conclude, that’s fashion to cherish, and wear!