Freedom. Chloe SS16

October 4, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Freedom! 90’s! – these are the ideas behind Clare Waight Keller‘s best and most succesful collection at Chloe. This collection made me suddenly love the #ChloeGirl! It’s so beautiful and carefree… and comfortable! Inspired with women who defined the 90’s, Chloe for SS16 is a powerful nod to the decade. The show-notes consisted of a list of first names: Kate, Courtney, Corinne. Kate Moss, Courtney Love, Corinne Day. These names whisper of cool Britannia: where, away from Spice Girls glam, fashion was falling in love with the imperfection of a new style of fashion photography, and an unconventional way of wearing clothes. These three women that have their influence up to now, were imagined by Waight Keller wearing silk tracksuits, boho dresses and multi-coloured sweaters.

Taking a look at the details of these very feminine clothes, you can spot sensual lace elements, light sheer textiles and lovely tassels which appeared to be drifting in the air when the models gracefully walked the runway. Also, denim’s reign is continuing. Last season, everybody was obsessed with Chloe’s denim jackets – now, the ultimately chic shorts become the most coveted item of Paris Fashion Week. Just like colourful tops. Or the slip-tops that again make us all miss favourite summer evenings. well-done, Clare.

Chateau Walk. The Row SS16

October 4, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s a common thing for luxury houses to change the locations for their fashion shows. The Row did not show in its hometown, New York, but shifted to Paris, where, as Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen explained, “many of our customers are, who we want to support. As you see, we are having a show in a chateau, 45 minutes outside Paris.” But did this major change influenced somehow the clothes? The Olsen sisters kept it close to their very American style – straight-lines and loose silhouettes looked ultimately The Row. In reality, no big deal – the designers constantly play wih their signature blanket ponchos, maxi dresses and lady-like pyjama looks. However, after seeing this collection, I have an impression that Olsen sisters want to transform The Row into the next Hermes – luxe-loafers and these croco-leather bags don’t make me think of an eponymous label anymore. Just like the serene model-walk around the chateau’s garden.

Psychedelic and Fancy. Dries Van Noten SS16

October 3, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Psychedelic and fancy – Dries Van Noten for spring-summer 2016 is all about that. I have never expected to see anything tulle at Dries’ show – but, there is always the first time. A tulle dress was worn with denim shorts and a “dad’s” blazer. The velvet clogs gave the look a fantastic edginess. The effect? Wow, I thought. The rest of the collection, which nearly contained all textiles of the world, from brocade and mohair to silk and jacquard, was bold and based on all-time favourites of the brand. The clothes were somewhere between the feminine zone and masculine basics. Over-sized denim flares looked effortlessly cool with these beautifully embroidered coats while the patterned turlenecks and tights gave each outfit an unconventional touch. Even though the collection of this Belgian designer might make your eyes feel pain due to all that colour, the collection seems to have a lot of highly desirable pieces.

Effective Basics. Lemaire SS16

October 3, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Lemaire and his woman are seasonless. Her wardrobe is built from basic, but high-quality pieces, like a hearty leather coat, a pair of high-waisted flares and open-toe heels. She doesn’t care about trends – she puts on her scarf in a non-chalant way and feels easy, comfortable and chic. And that’s precisely what Christophe Lemaire‘s simple, but effective fashion is all about.

Ridiculous. Maison Margiela SS16

October 3, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

After few collections presented by John Galliano for Maison Margiela, I have a clear opinion on him – he is not the same Galliano we knew at Dior. The spirit of that Galliano seems to be tamed by the idea of conceptualism that is constantly imposed by Margiela’s codes. It’s visible he tries hard to make Maison Margiela an enigmatic and elusive brand – but his other side of a show-man just doesn’t let it go. Drama queen dresses, transparent baggy dresses, bee-hive hairstyles… even the artisanal textiles he uses don’t look high-end, but rather like from one of London’s fashion student graduation collection. Also, the whole idea of gender-fusing seems to be not that fresh as Galliano and Margiela’s studio thought when the did the show’s casting. Men wearing fish-net tops and high-waisted skirts? So Eckhaus Latta. And, of course, the most ridiculous thing about the entire collection – the bags tied with obi knots to the model’s back. When you don’t have any other idea how to make a show amusing, you do this type of thing. And call it pret-a-couture or something alike.