Flamenco. Proenza Schouler SS16

September 18, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler are approaching a new field of femininity. Their SS16 was like a quick vacation to South America – the heat of flamenco was unbearable, but appealing. The textiles were more light, which is a contrast to their last-season heavy wools and metal detailing; the attitude changed towards the Proenza woman, who is much more sensual and on-going. Exposed-shoulder-dresses and Cuban heeled pumps are the ultimate hits from the collection – just like the 70’s inspired, plexi earrings. However, the collection lacked a bit of fantasy, even though the designers had their dresses made by Parisian couturiers. It wasn’t a bad collection, but surely not the best one from Proenza Schouler boys.

Only Lovers Left Alive. Rodarte SS16

September 17, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Only Lovers Left Alive is one of my favourite movies, ever – vampy Tilda Swinton, elusive Detroit and the beautiful story of two, pale-faced lovers always makes me have goosebumps. So when I saw the first looks from Kate and Laura Mulleavy‘s Rodarte SS16 outing, I was mesmerised. I am absolutely share, that New York’s favourite sister duo had this movie on their mood-board. The collection had a fancy, psychedelic approach towards romantic dresses. This signature, Rodarte-ish romance is not shallow – it is like poetry. You need to interpret it the way you want. The designers spent the summer immersing themselves in Elizabeth Barrett Browning, Emily Dickinson, and Leonard Cohen, while listening to Electric Light Orchestra’s early synthesized, sparkly music. The collection also had something of Old Hollywood – the gowns were made of collages of lace, velvet, embroidery, beading, and silk fringing, cut into Victoriana bodices and ethereal, floor sweeping lenghts. To complete all that lavish heaven, Rodarte introduced their gorgeous, Art Deco inspired boots. The effect? With black fish-net tights, this collection felt authentic and nostalgic, but in a good sense.

Gender Fluid, Ageism and Raw. Eckhaus Latta SS16

September 16, 2015September 16, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta know how to strike New York. They don’t need Marina Abramovic to make a performance, they don’t need a celebrity-crowded front row. Eckhaus Latta is the brand, that makes the topic of gender-fluid fashion more accessible, and somewhat, intriguing. Their spring-summer 2016 collection was arty and avant-garde, but surprisingly werable. Also, it said “stop” to ageism – the designer duo’s 50+ friends walked the runway in sheer, body stocking jumpsuits. Nudity was the topic of the show, too. The models wore all those transparent blouses and mini-dresses with confidence and original, free-spirited attitude. There is a catecorigal difference between a professional model wearing an almost naked outfit, and a person that really wears the clothes. The feeling of Eckhaus Latta’s nudity is raw, but absolutely true. Although we couldn’t notice a usual blogger pack, the undergroud influencers of New York, (Dev Hynes, Juliana Huxtable, Alexandra Marzella, and Grace Dunham, among others) presented amazing, voluminous silhouettes and edgy tank-tops made from the strangest textiles I have ever seen. I must admit – after seeing the second Eckhaus Latta collection in a row, I am much more amused and overhelmed with it, than with the massive Givenchy show that took place earlier this week. Sometimes, less is really more.

Detachment. A Détacher SS16

September 15, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

The collection opened with a pair of midi dresses in an Indonesian-inspired floral print. Polka-dots covered the dresses. Pastel-shaded knitwear was worn in a playful way. I am talking about A Détacher, the label founded and designed by Mona Kowalska. The brand’s clients and buyers understand Kowalska’s specific, edgy concept – it is not about a trend. It is all about the piece of clothing. And her current mood for dressing. Notice all those interesting, but well hidden “reconstructions”! The softness of these long pullovers. And the totes which were carried in an effortless way. True, this collection is not shouting “FASHION” across the room – but many of these hearty clothes will find their space in the wardrobe’s of women who adore A Détacher!

Unlooped. Derek Lam SS16

September 15, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Layered whites, lace trim and silk fringes, and a row of black buttons intentionally left unlooped for that haphazard sexiness. Derek Lam discovers feminine silhouettes for his spring-summer 2016 collection, creating great outfit compositions, and of course clothes. Fur stoles were carried by the models in a non-chalant way while the long, medieval-esque gowns looked weightlessly on Grace Hartzel. Although I felt A LOT of references to Celine and Chloe (as usually), the collection is lovely.