Green. Givenchy Resort’16

June 18, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Wow – green? Yes! Riccardo Tisci absoutely shocked me with his very detox-coloured Resort for Givenchy. Minty dresses, olive skirts, khaki jackets, emerald animal prints (kind of eew) – mostly everything was splashed with the colour of peace, matcha tea and pea. And not overkill it, Tisci brought on the totally white looks at the end, giving us a smooth, elegant ending. To make it even more unexpected, the Givenchy team shot the look-book on the streets of London – this gives us a hint that the house thrives to surprise again, leaving behind printed t-shirts and dressing Kim and Kanye.

London in Brazil. Marques Almeida Resort’16

June 14, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

After winning the LVMH Prize, Marques Almeida quickly updated their brand schedule, by introducing a new season to it – Resort. And for their first Resort, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida went to Brazil with their muse, Sofia, to photograph and present it. The effects? A collection of wearable clothes, which have a very specific MA signature. Special denim tops with ruffles; grungy silhouettes; bold colours. And lovely dresses which were styled in unusually elegant way. Loose-weave light knits were slashed and knotted just like their tattered T-shirts, which came reinvented here as beachwear. Digital jungle-print silks and florals were a clash of femininity and the typical rawness Marques Almeida has in its codes. It is worth to mention, that going to Brazil was worth it – the clothes looked really laid-back and the lookbook will definitely catch your eye.

Female. The Row Resort’16

June 12, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Row makes minimalism and “effortless” luxury its routine, and we all know it by observing the last years of Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen at their brand. Resort 2016 tells a story about artists like Constantin Brâncuși or Jean Cocteau. They thought of a painter in his studio, in his oversize painter’s blouse that’s cinched at the waist. This image is balanced with the strong feminine spirit. And this wardrobe is her outside weapon filled with well tailored pieces for every scenario or journey she might encounter. She might be as laid-back as can be in a robe – or in enough layers to cast her sophistication and her strength.

Arty Uniform. JW Anderson Resort’16

June 11, 2015June 11, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Although J.W. Anderson is recognised as an avant-garde designer, this time the spotlight was stolen by the ruffled shoes. In polished gold, silver and black, the feminised cowboy boots looked peculiar, but from the other side desirable. If talking of the clothes – eclecticism rules. Flower prints, denim, leather, flashy colours and arty embroideries created a pretty chaotic cocktail. Also, a great surprise was seeing ultra-naive polka dots on the dresses – these looked much better at Anderson’s rather than at Dolce & Gabbana. Full of contradictions, the collection had a typically unsettling thing about it – maybe because it was so eccentric in its wearability? Or maybe because it wasn’t planned to be wearable? Jonathan Anderson will never stop making me confused about his fashion.

Beautiful Boheme. Marc Jacobs Resort’16

June 11, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

The minimal, lemon-squeezed venue. And then the clothes. Marc Jacobs outdid himself this season – these beautiful clothes made a big highlight in the Resort 2016 list. The pussy-bow chiffon shirt was my definitive favourite, just like the statuesque maxi dress. Also, the AW15 theme continues. The entire mood of the clothes had this Diana Vreeland bohemia all around, giving a great contrast towards the current minimalism tendency in fashion. Embroideries had a moment; studs on bags and mary-janes; laser-cut lace on opulent sweatshirts and Alaia-like skirts … it seemed like if Marc decided to do some gorgeous couture for the most ready-to-wear season of the year! That’s the reason why to love Marc Jacobs. Expect the unexpected. Who would expect the runway show end up, spontaneously, on the streets of SoHO, next to the MJ flagship store on Mercer St.? That was ultimately the best Instagram moment of the week.