HC: Slavic. Valentino SS15

January 31, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Wow. I am moved. Valentino did a collection totally dedicated to Slavic culture and heritage. I definitely see so many Eastern Europpean accents – cubic prints inspired with Marc Chagall; Polish ethno dresses; romantic embroidery; warm and and charming textiles. Chagall, in particular, captivated Maria Grazia and Pierpaolo Piccioli. “He had an incredible life, very hard, but he maintained his optimistic vision,” Piccioli said. The painter’s Belarussian origins provided a leitmotif for the embellishments that are so central to the designers’ aesthetic – bold, but with a toned touch. If talking of romance, Valentino also made hair decorated with real flowers – that was a cherry on the top of the cake. So, a Slavic person, I approve this collection.

HC: In The Garden. Chanel SS15

January 31, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Am I the only one who thinks Karl Lagerfeld starts to be boring? This haute couture collection feels so… without life. The models were all dressed up as gardener wives, wearing ugly, anti-couture boots, widow straw hats and strange silhouettes, which are totally not eye-catchy. Definitely, if not the high retail of bags and cosmetics, the brand would feel some crisis. He claimed the show came to him in an electronic flash. “One morning in bed, I saw it in a second.” Or maybe he had a peek at the archives? SS10? Ring a bell? Same theme – cute dresses and a garden. But, then, the dresses were really cute.

HC: Latex Dreams. Dior SS15

January 30, 2015January 30, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Raf Simons did some crazy latex knee boots with rhinestone crystal inside. Having Allen Jones provoking furniture and art on his mood-board, Raf Simons fused Great Gatsby jumpsuits, 60’s prints and flattering 70’s silhouettes into one, beautiful collection. “My first Couture shows were exercises in understanding the history. The more you understand, the more you see what it can become.” Definitely, Raf is more into couture at Dior… thoses striped tulle skirts are mesmerising! So tribal. The jumpsuits look chic and stylish. And latex shoes which covered the legs made it all a bit eccentric, sexy, flirty.

Photos by Lea Colombo

HC: Elite de Paris. Schiaparelli SS15

January 30, 2015January 31, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

I mean, Schiaparelli didn’t gave much time to Marco Zanini. After two seasons, he’s out. Well, if it’s couture, then don’t count on high retail, right? Duhh. If talking of the collection – I am a bit annoyed. The collection was designed by Schiaparelli studio, so it doesn’t have any fresh touch. It’s just about taking archive pieces from pre-war period and making them a bit more modern. But from the other side, the dresses were impressive with all those embroideries. Then, the beaded saris and white smoking brought the old good Parisian elite to life. But… I want something more. I want the house to respect it’s legacy, but at the same time represent something individual, fresh. Hmmm…

Gris. Jacquemus Pre-Fall’15

January 29, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jacquemus gets commercial… and this is his first pre-fall collection. This look-book is not the thing you would expect from Simone Porte – his usually naive, colourful collections are contradictory to this mature, sharp and, as the name suggest, grey-shaded pre-fall. The background seems to be disturbing, too – factories and desolated beach… if talking of the clothes, we can observe exaggerated shoulders, school-uniform lengths and rounded “panels” jutting out of the skirts and tops. Personally, I prefered Jacquemus being more… conceptual? Not that muted?