Intrigue. Prada SS15

September 19, 2014September 20, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Staring at undulating purple sand dunes from the deep aubergine carpeted seating, the audience spent a good half an hour getting spaced out to a sci-fi whirring soundtrack that only built up the anticipation. And then the denim stitched coats came out, with Gemma Ward having an epic appearance. And then the Victoriana skirts. And it all changed into intrigue. Darkly romantic, beautiful with imperfections and shinings of the past without literally referencing tropes of the decade – we are totally convinced that we all need to look at the seventies through Miuccia-tinted glasses. Even these mysterious kimono dresses worn by types like Lara Stone felt slightly perverse but very sublime. Art by Mickalene Thomas.

Military Rococo. No.21 SS15

September 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Allesandro Dell’Acqua presented a new fashion genre: military rococo. It’s deeply Italian- embroideries, surrealism, opulence- but also strictly casual (checks and waist belts). And it’s seriously lovely! For summer, No.21 presented an avant-garde fusion of ready-to-wear clothing and alta moda embellishments on skirts and shirts. There was also something punk about the collections, Crop tos had strong Scottish checks on them, and were cooly embroidered with crystals… and the shoes were all about Salvador Dali to me. The exagerrated ribbon had funny eyes attched to them, making the feet look pretty different. But that’s only a good thing.

The 70’s. Gucci SS15

September 19, 2014September 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Frida Gianini re-visted the 70’s for summer, making the collection boheme and luxury. Fur, velvet, jeans, logo- all of that was present, with lots of embroideries and gorgeous handkerchiefs tied around model’s necks. Oh, and if you have an old, Jackie Gucci bag which you don’t wear because of the logo or the “luxurious” brownish colour, then it’s it time to shine again! This bag with the Gucci striped handle is having it’s comeback. The collection itself isn’t kind of mind-blowing. It’s good, it brings luxury and Gucci legacy back to it’s roots. It’s basically Gucci.

Italian Summer. Stella Jean SS15

September 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Aah, those Italian summers, where you simply swim the pool, sunbathe with a favourite book and visit those small, cozy villages… Stella Jean, the designer coming from Hawaii, which is based in Milan, really brought the Mediterrean sun to all of us in her latest collection for summer. The emerging star of MFW brings up odd silhouttes of her signature, strongly printed skirts and over-sized t-shirts, giving us the heat of Sardinia in one of the capes and beauty of Corsica in another dress. With the prints painted on the clothes, the collection feels very Stella Jean and very, very appropriate for hot summer! Instantly in love!

Cute Love. Simone Rocha SS15

September 18, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

I hear Vanessa Paradis Pourtant when I look at Simone Rocha’s SS15 collection. It’s so romantic, oh my! Ad cute! Those model’s curly hair styled with these fur trimmed broques and fragile dresses feel so truly naive and sublime at the same time… Rocha has always been ambitious with her textiles, but what felt new this season was the sensitivity and specificity with which she deployed them: a light touch of embroidery on pink mesh, the graphic counterpoint of floral embellishment on a sheer white sheath, that lurid marabou snaking around a dress of silvery brocade. The collection, having a lot of themes, felt all the time truly girlie and interesting (my heart belongs to those shoes with fur!) with those rose appliqued sheer dresses. Surely, this will be a retail challenge- but Simone’s fashion is always best-sellng at London’s Dover Street Market, so no worries!