I am obsessed with Roksanda’s SS15! It’s so bold, vibrant, colourful! Simply amazing. Roksanda Ilincic overdid herself this year, creating her first store in London, changing the label’s name into Roksanda and making her brand a real thing. For summer, as you might already see through my enthusiasm, we’ve got geometry and colourful radiance. Lilac, mint, rose, sherbet, fire orange, and royal blue all had somewhat of a neon tint. This contributed to the collection’s sporty edge, which was enhanced by matching flat sandals and geometric heels designed in collaboration with Nicholas Kirkwood. Also of note were Ilincic’s closing looks: sheer organza dresses embellished with squiggly lines that were one part Jackson Pollock, one part Silly String. Ilincic referred to the velvety embroidery as “eyelashes.” It evoked pipe cleaners. But either way, the result was marvelous. Art by Patrick Caulfield.
Reviews
Take a Bow. Jonathan Saunders SS15
I like that, Jonathan! This season is possibly the most strong to date for this British designer. In his files, he’d come across a piece of cotton voile from a Japanese mill as light—and pliable—as paper. The possibility of combining the two inspired a striking effect: paper saturated with blue, impressed on fabric, like artisanal color-blocking. “It’s about process,” master printmaker Saunders explained. He wanted lightness. He got it.The show was really about beautiful lightness, ruffles and ribbons. This fragile yet very dynamic collection had also a beautiful shade of blue in it at the end. It felt elusive and fresh. And, in comparison with last season, it was much better!
New Woman. J.W. Anderson SS15
Wow. Jonathan Anderson really shocked everybody during his SS15 show. Like, really. And definitely the master of modern adrogeny takes us to a new level of femininity. Me, being slightly bored with Anderson’s minimal, sharp tunics and dresses, thic tres chic (yes, CHIC, at J.W. Anderson) brought something controversial and interesting. With a lot of leather and giving a leg, the whole collection was “hid” under huge, black hats… That was a really beautiful, lady-like moment. Also, the jewellery was good… Wooden buckles and puzzle necklaces are major. Although I am not always a fan of J.W. Anderson collection (like for example last season), I always feel something new will be presented… Is Jonathan the Phoebe Philo of London? Think so. By the way, happy birthday Jonathan Anderson! It’s your 30! And- well- you did yourself a really good present!
Relaxed Way. Barbara Casasola SS15
Barabara Casasola is the hottest name coming from Brazil, making the start of London Fashion Week relaxed and sexy. For summer, the designer used shades of warm grey, khaki and orange, to put together a sensual line-up.The pencil skirts and tops were slim, but at the same time warn in a slouch way; the closing look, so the tank-top worn with pleated trousers (they too good), was also an easy way to show the warm feminine side. Casasola is on the boundary of simple dressing and provocative sensuality- and we really like it! We’ve got our eyes on this emerging designer!
Girl in Uniform. Marc Jacobs SS15
As usually, making his show last during New York fashion week, Marc Jacobs does the biggest twist, showing whose the king of New York. Last season, Jacobs put clouds all around the huge hall. And now, for summer, we’ve got a… pink house. Yes! Was it a psychedelic vision of daily routine? Or something random? Or maybe something connected to peace? That would tell us what the big military trend do at the show! Khaki bomb dresses, sweatpants, huge pockets, backpacks (which are so Prada inspired!) and the universal black wigs of the models, which made the viewer concentrate on clothing. But all that cold atmosphere was made slightly sweet, with those little flowers painted on the over-sized tops. As usually, Marc Jacobs shows us something unusual (even the fact that he came back to the military trend means SOMETHING) and philosophical. And that was pretty it, if talking of NYFW, folks!



































