Blurred. J.W. Anderson AW14

February 19, 2014February 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

J.W. Anderson loves playing with shape. And with silhouttes. But his AW14 was a bit blurred and unstable in fact- the gowns were made out of delicate fabrics, although looked cold. What else, it felt that Anderson wanted to move into a new direction, into something new- but this “something” was lost.
Interesting turtlenecks and shoes appeared on the runway with all those structured minimalistic forms… But the collection lacked of the designer’s freshness that was always brought on London Fashion Week runway. That was surely one of the weakest collection to date, but the most commercial.

Happy Days. Marc Jacobs AW14

February 18, 2014February 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

As always for the end of NYFW, Marc Jacobs serves us all something that nobody really thought about. First of all, the setting- clouds that looked like fluffy little lambs, hung over the runway, and the guests sat on mushroom stools. Feels very psychedelic and relaxing. The soundtrack of this final New York collection was the endlessly repeated phrase “Happy Days are here again”.
Yes? So why the models had their faces so pale and hair so straight and rounded? So solemn… “After last season with all this Victoriana theme, all that black and heaviness, we wanted something light and calm- a cosmetic neutral palette colouring their hair and faces, and with women we respected” said Marc Jacobs at the backstage of the show. This collection was also one of the most important- it’s his first, independent collection without designing for Louis Vuitton and Marc by Marc Jacobs (that is now under Luella Bartley’s and Katie Hillier’s wings).
His women, solemn and fragile, reminded me of younger Michelle Pfeiffer and Barbra Streisand style- straight lines on minimalistic, pastel dresses, small boots, pin thin pants. Neutral colours were touched with sweet thanks to apricot coloured fur bomber jackets. And everything seemed to be very wearable…
What’s good (and makes me indeed happy) is that Marc Jacobs continues his surrealistic aesthetics and isn’t scared to have fun with fashion. The AW14 was a future statement- are the happy days coming up?

Royals. The Row AW14

February 18, 2014February 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Row’s Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen created a new vision- the perfect clothes. These ones are for “always”. For all events, for all situations. They are all in brown, beige, black palette. And they are comfortable.
The AW14 of The Row was full of genius coats and knitwear that perfectly fits today’s New York weather situation. The maxi dresses with collars and monastic prints brought some charm to the collection, just like the fur hoods of the black capes and the Oxford shoes that are everywhere this season. Surely when the clothes hit the store, they will be best-sellers… Not because it’s trendy, but simply ageless. That was the best collection of the label to date.

Energy. Proenza Schouler AW14

February 18, 2014August 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

There was a clue before the show. The invitation. It was all about multicoloured pieces of spongy fabric pressed into cardboard and words written down “energy, abstraction, humour, action, colour, instinct, spontaneous, fast”. And yep, that was fast indeed. The models walked (rushed) threw the runway, with their heads down on the floor.
Surprisingly spite of the precision cutting and fabrics that often looked like carpet underlay, now looked charming rather weird. Proenza as always broke the rules- fabrics that don’t tend to be matched for example with neoprene were all mixed up here.
Wearing sandals with socks and Cristobal Balenciaga inspired cuts and forms, the collection was rapidly named majah (first fashion people used to say major- now it’s majah!) by the New Yorkers and me. Oh, and the soundtrack? Missy Elliot’s “Work” remix. It matched the fast vibe of the show perfectly.

Apocalyptic. Rodarte AW14

February 17, 2014February 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

“Let the power be with you” said one of the Star Wars character. The Mulleavy sisters of Rodarte got really into Sci-Fi movies this season… The collection had a very interesting, rather philosophical sense- first, grandma’s knitwear sweaters, bag and dress embroidery. All kept in stardust bright fabrics and Swarovski crystals. The models stroked poses in quirky cardigans, and then dramatically changed their under-the-knee skirts into Star Wars printed gown. Well. Sounds pretty unstable. But surely that was a perfect Rodarte collection. That was really Rodarte.