Survivalist chic: heavy environmental politics underpinned a collection of arctic coats, heavy duty boots and polar bear prints. This is what Christopher Raeburn’s AW14 collection for men looked like. With some long, fur coats and warm orange jackets, this collection is one of my favourites this season. It looks masculine, comfortable and cool- just what menswear should be like. I’m yours, Raeburn!
Everything was molto sexy, molto luxurious, molto funny at the first Jeremy Scott for Moschino collection. And there is no surprise what Moschino is like with Scott- crazy, quirky and definitely not ordinary. But the designs that emerged had a lot of charm—they made you smile. For exampe his trenchcoat with a negligee sewn on top. There were other smile efforts, too, like silk-satin tee, made to look like a giant garment tag and the stilettos seamed like baseballs, stamped “MOSCHINO Official Major League” on the heel. What do you think of new Moschino?
Pre-Fall gets knocked as the most purely commercial season. But commercial needn’t mean boring, as Acne’s Jonny Johansson understands. “There was something earthy, in the most literal sense, about the way the designer mingled the textures of Persian lamb and felted or boiled wool with slick silk, leather, and neoprene; meanwhile, numerous wrapped, draped, and folded wool pieces looked like they’d been riffed off of beach blankets, the kind you wrap up in for a walk along the shore on a brisk day.” Certainly, this collection is cool.
Is it the upcoming future for men? Will we, men, wear boxy clutches, colourful bracelet, kimono/dresses and shoes on high platforms? J.W. Anderson tells us the strange future in his recent collection. What I admire about him, is that he really creates something new, something fresh- and no body will tell him STOP. Known for androgynous fashion, Anderson did a very unisex collection- well, it could be worn also by women. While looking at it, it looks a bit out of world… but who knows. Maybe the world will be such a strange place, that men will wear these outfits? For now… don’t think so.
Christopher Kane is not too proud to name his shame. He’s an ophidiophobe—he’s terrified of snakes. But, just like the song lyric goes, fear is a man’s best friend. From the very beginning of Kane’s career, snakes have slithered through his collections to great effect. In his pre-fall collection, Kane used not only serpentine leather, but also something much more… nuclear? No, that doesn’t mean we saw radiated snakes. Literally, ATOMS were all around the collection- on dresses, on necklaces… this might be a pretty scientific mix of trends, but you can’t expect normal from Chris. 
Design & Culture by Ed 