Here we are back in New York City, the American capital of fashion. The NY Fashion Week started with new ideas, new (furry) trends and colours. For beginning I chose Alexander Wang with his amazing collectio that I called Nomadian Elegance. When the model with a grey hoodie on her head, grey structured coat and amazing, long, black, made out of fur gloves, I knew Wang will be leading in the new season. Then came more and more sweaters, coats that remind me slightly of Parisian chick like Margiela or Celine. When the in-the-hoodie models change into without-a-hoodie ones, I saw some influences with Wang’s past collections- Sweatshirts with holes, and a lot of metallic youth vibe!
And I really loved the origami grey dress with a metallic top on it! The model that closed the show was Malgosia Bela, a Polish top model who is starring now for A.Wang summer campaign. She came out in a minimalistic white blouse and pants, and in a beautiful grey fur. Malgosia looked really stunning! The shoes of the collection were also cool- black leather pumps and on them a grey wool sock! That will for sure gonna work for cold conditions!
Reviews
“What’s that jacket, Margiela?”
Paris. 11th arrondissement. Lies opposite Saint Joseph de Nations, Catholic church. It is the headquarter of Maison Martin Margiela. The building is from 19th century and used to be a convent in earlier life. The entrance is white, a chandelier covered in white fabric is seen. A pink neon sign Welcome is hanging above the reception. The members of Maison are dressed in blouses blanche, the white lab coats. Archive photos are hanging all over. Yep, it is the house of Maison Martin Margiela. Where the magic of couturier is happening. The new definition of ready-to-wear is formed.
The couture line of Margiela- Artinasal, had a asian fusion this season. It was all very tailored and full of ornaments. The beginning of the show was like if somebody put withe paint on black dress. Then the Indian influences and a la sari’s came. It was beautiful.
After the youth energy came. Elegant dresses mixed with a great dose of colour? Only at Maison Martin Margiela. That was my favourite part of the show. And the face masks reminded me of the Trompe L’Oile print that was shown on the HM collaboration on the blouses.
Men’s: AW13 for Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton knows how to amaze me. This time, LV was awesome! Kim Jones, the deigner, is just a menswear genius! The collection started from faded leopard coats, then into black. The sport jackets with fur and backpacks are just perfect for a stylish trip to mountains and the 70’s floral kimonos look like they were taken from Tibet! The whole collection was like a trip to this magical place in Asia. Mountains, snow, Asian-culture influences, dragons… The bags from traditional tapestry shown some mystic stories and the super cute sweater with a comic leopard will be for sure must have in Paris street style (the same as the beige too big scarves from last season). And look at the backpacks- they are edgy with youthful vibe, although they look practically for a journey to a ideal snowy country… Maybe Switzerland, Italy, France or Aspen?
Men’s: AW13 for Acne and Maison Martin Margiela
Acne as always is cool. The sweatshirts are just amazing, bags are a must have, pants, coats and shirts are awesome. The collection was minimalistic and chic. There were neutrals, blues and whites. The new things are the winter jackets that are a real wonder. The hats are funny. My favourite is the camel coat.
Maison Martin Margiela shows that menswear can also be haute couture! The constructed from different things and leather cape just left me in total amaze. And the patched fur coat was a highlight of the show. But before those art pieces, there were some classical crepe coats with fur collars, striped blouses and normal fur jackets. That’s just so Margielish!
Celine Pre-Fall 2013
Phoebe Philo is not changing. Even pregnance didn’t give her colours, patterns and a new chracter. And this is good. The new models of shoes are very interesting and there is a cool way of using fat grey wool for trousers! I don’t really get what is mountain goat fur doing here. These fur were used in 90’s. Every women that was poor could by it in Russia because it was quite cheap and it was sticked with… Glue. The sombrero’s look poor, like a small joke. But a big plus for belts! However, I still think the collection is nice and it will for sure appear in big cities.
Design & Culture by Ed 