Upside Down. Hodakova AW24

April 11, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ellen Hodakova Larsson indulges in imperfection and inventiveness. This Swede has built a practice of finding treasure where others see trash, echoing ideas of new materialism. She crafts witty, contemporary classics using already-existing materials, many of which carry a patina that only time can impart. Bras, belts, metal trays, a constellation of buttons, waistbands, and underwires have all been through her hands, turning into artisanal garments. Through her work, which often involves turning things over (see the trouser dresses) and inside out (the garments made of lining fabrics), patchworking (this season’s argyles), and accumulating, Hodakova is turning the idea of value upside down. Her bricolage pieces – often rough at the edges and with emphasis on tactility – are related to the designer’s own values and upbringing. A former competitive equestrienne, she was raised on a working farm that, she said, made her “very aware of what things cost, what you can do, how you can grow things yourself – what you can do with nothing in general.” It’s been proven over and over how limitations foster creativity, and that’s reflected in the designer’s autumn-winter 2024 collection. Smart tufted looks referenced the chesterfield sofas the designer grew up with. The attaché case that turned into a dress belonged to her father. Beret shoulders on a top and a top made of molded-metal serving trays flirted with the romance of Paris. The designer has made it a signature to crown every collection with a dress made of one object: this time, prize ribbons replaced the viral spoons and watches of last season.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Very Vivara. Emilio Pucci SS24

April 6, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Camille Miceli delivered a bold and joyful Emilio Pucci moment: high-energy runway presentation held at Palazzo Altemps in Rome, opened with a stunning appearance by Christy Turlington and closed with the iconic Italian actress and model Isabella Rossellini. To the tune of Roisin Murphy’s covers of all-time Italian classics, the charismatic designer sent down a contemporary take on the psychedelic Pucci motif. No wonder why the collection was titled “Very Vivara” – after the iconic pattern which was created way back in 1965 and has the same vibrant resonance in 2024. Intertwining the characteristic sumptuousness and the emblematic lightness of the fashion house, shifting between organic and geometric shapes, Miceli offers a certain heartfelt glamour that doesn’t feel forced. Wearing a breezy Pucci caftan-dress, you’re a jet-set goddess, but one cherishing ease and comfort.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Accidental Impressionism. Danielle Frankel AW24

April 3, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

If there’s one designer that leads the bridalwear game today, then it’s definitely Danielle Frankel and her New York-based studio. However Danielle isn’t limiting her designs to weddings only; she describes her namesake brand as “a fashion label” whose “medium is bridal,” a minor yet important distinction that indeed manages to capture her stunning creative output. The latest collection, starring Italian beauty Mariacarla Boscono and styled by Vanessa Traina, is an in-depth study of texture, unique fabrications, and gesturally arranged flowers lead to a sort of accidental Impressionism. The brand’s signature interplay of hard and soft and its relaxed refinement join pointedly feminine details that are naturally mussed at the edges. Oil-on-canvas landscapes are interpreted by hand-painted petit-fleurs, watercolor prints, and sculpted blooms. Painterly brushstrokes adorn featherweight organza juxtaposed by castings of metal and clay blossoms created by artisans in Ukraine and South Africa. The introduction of silk jersey brings a goddess-like liquidity to the range, while the addition of Lyon lace elevates an exploration of sheerness and structure. Silk woven with metal fibers creates beautiful wrinkles that are meant to last rather than be pressed away; a sort of “perfect imperfection“. In a continued exploration of color for the aisle, alabaster is joined by patinaed rust, hibiscus, citrus, pale chrysanthemum (Frankel’s favorite) and various shades of ivory. Degradé-dyed and pearl-tipped organza fringes mimic grasses in the hand-brushed expanses that inspired them. This really isn’t your average bride-to-be wardrobe.

Here’s a couple of Danielle Frankel beauties you can get right now…

ED’s SELECTION:

Nina Pleated Wool And Silk-blend Satin Gown

Harper Open-back Draped Wool And Silk-blend Satin Gown

Guinevere Shirred Grosgrain-trimmed Tulle Gown

Wendell Tiered Ruffled Lace And Tulle Mini Dress

Lucy Cold-shoulder Lace-trimmed Tulle And Cady Mini Dress

Lottie Strapless Appliquéd Silk-organza Mini Dress

And here’s a selection of gorgeous bride-perfect shoes just in case!

Manolo Blahnik Hangisli 70 Crystal-embellished Satin Slingback Pumps

Manolo Blahnik Rinialola 70 Bow-embellished Embroidered Mesh And Crepe De Chine Pumps

Magda Butrym Spiral Appliquéd Satin Sandals

Roger Vivier Belle Vivier Trompette Leather Pumps

René Caovilla Crystal-embellished Lace And Leather Pumps

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Bulbous Shapes. Duran LaNtink AW24

April 1, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

There’s no way you haven’t seen oneof those bulbous denim shorts or red dresses in one of the latest editorials (or magazine covers). Stylists went crazy for Duran Lantink‘s spring-summer 2024 collection, being his big break-through moment. Garments with built up shoulders and hips with padding, torsos exaggerated with stretchy body stockings: these extreme proportions make for great photos, and are just really fun to play around with. For his autumn-winter 2024 collection, the Dutch designer is on a similar wave of thought (big shapes and sustainable approach to garment-making) but with hints of commercial sensibility. Instead of delving into such summery essentials as bathing suits and lifesavers, he trained his attention on wintery gear like ski sweaters, long johns, and cozy wool socks, complemented by some power tailoring. “We’re really trying to figure out new ways of presenting clothes, creating new shapes and forming a new identity,” he said. Using padding, he exaggerated the shoulders on both a sweater dress and a single-breasted jacket by bringing them forward, and thickened the chest and back on cropped jackets in leather or upcycled puffer nylons. The effect is somewhat sexy. Unsurprisingly, these shapes aren’t easy to achieve. “They’re very labor intensive,” Lantink said “but I’m kind of a romantic thinker in that way. From my perspective, I don’t think that it’s something only conceptual.” Still, he has to think about commerciality, so on smaller pieces like sweater vests and button-downs he inserted a good inch or inch-and-a-half of foam between two layers of fabric, sometimes slicing them horizontally or diagonally to show off their unusual thickness. Damn, this year’s LVMH Prize season is really intense: Duran is in the game along with Elena Velez, Niccolo Pasqualetti, Vautrait, Marie Adam-Leenaerdt and other talents.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Toughened Up. Supriya Lele AW24

March 29, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Supriya Lele, the London-based designer, is known for her skimpy silhouettes and flesh-revealing cuts. For autumn-winter 2024, her decidedly female viewpoint takes a toughened up direction. “I started thinking about what I was actually wearing,” Lele said. “Every day, I’ve been wearing this baseball coat and slim jeans. And so we started by working into this idea with a really nice kind of leather piece.” It turned out as an over-the-head leather hoodie. The slim jeans part became fine-gauge leggings. “Then obviously, we started exploring the draping that I love to do so much, which I think has now become sort of more of a signature of mine. I wanted to create fabrics that looked wet, almost iridescent.” That effect is definitely conveyed by one of the dresses in white paisley lace, hand-foiled with pearlized paint, subtly underlining the designer’s Indian heritage. What worked in favor of the collection was the way it got captured: at an an ex-pharmacy, with a busy street glimpsed outside and a corner pub over the road (fun fact: Lele’s studio is located on an upper floor in the same building). The spontaneous, uncontrived poses – or rather walks – of the models and the raw surroundings make these hot clothes feel grounded in reality.

Here’s a summer-ready Supriya Lele piece you can scoop right now!

ED’s SELECTION:

Backless Cutout Ruched Mesh Halterneck Bodysuit

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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