La Ruta del Bacalao. Luis De Javier SS24

November 1, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

Luis De Javier, Spanish-born, London-based designer, presented his spring-summer 2024 colection in a space smack in the middle of Hollywood, just above Sunset Boulevard. The designer brought on a new stylist – his mentor, Riccardo Tisci. Judging by these few sentences you can already predict this was a hot fashion moment. Against a techno soundtrack, de Javier presented a collection that has evolved from his previous ones, with a matured sense of proportion and volume. He continued his exploration of political commentary through clothing inspired by Spain’s 1990s hardcore rave movement, La Ruta del Bacalao. Since it was shut down by an oppressive government, the collection imagines a utopia in which the movement would still be alive today. Corseting was the common denominator, as it was in past seasons, communicated in different materials such as leather, canvas, and latex, and layered under and over other pieces. A latex coat with exaggerated shoulders draped fluidly; constructed as a corset or dress, it covered the body as if it were poured over it. The bling came by way of chains and cords draped over jersey dresses, and unlikely materials, such as extra-long ballerina nails, that were reimagined as dramatic fringe on an asymmetrical evening dress. Mixing club kid vibes and Cristobal Balenciaga-inspired could easily go wrong. Tisci’s mentorship lends refinement to de Javier’s vision. Where his past collections had obvious references, this one is more subtle, and what might have previously been rough around the edges now came with the romantic darkness Tisci is known for. Tisci’s touch in the styling was evident as well, via the restrained color palette, the delicate mix of lace and leather, and belts cinched tightly across the bust. The jersey t-shirts worn over the head recalled a nun’s veil, which is in line with the religious references Tisci used during his time at Givenchy. This was a strong, evocative collection, and also a big reminder that fashion needs more of Riccardo Tisci.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram! By the way, did you know that I’ve started a newsletter called Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

Eureka Moment. Phoebe Philo Edit 1

October 31, 2023March 8, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Once the debut see-now-buy-now Phoebe Philo collection got launched yesterday at 4 pm, it felt like an eureka moment. Even now, writing this post, I feel unbashed joy that Philo, after over five years of absence from the fashion industry (and fashion circus), finally materialized the brand that was indefinitely teased and teased and edged every single Philophile of this world. Much was already said during yesterday’s collective euphoria, and I agree 100% with Cathy Horyn’s words: it’s the kind of movement that people have been waiting for. The first drop – entitled “A1” – is a mix of uncontrived images by Talia Chetrit depicting powerful women of all ages, and a look-book that is the perfect balance of feminine and masculine notions – something Philo mastered to perfection at Céline, and seems to push to another level at her namesake brand. Phoebe isn’t a designer who is looking at references, she rather gravitates towards moods that are more visual than verbal. If “A1” is a mood, then it’s a punch of witty and very intriguing energy. The contrast of bulky leathers and fluid-like silhouettes informs a closet of a woman that doesn’t give an F about trends and “cores”. She just wants clothes that don’t categorize her as either a “minimalist” or “maximalist”. The collection, consisting also of fluffy shearling coats (modelled by Daria Werbowy, the eternal Philo muse since her Chloé days), supremely cut “Milanese” pants, hand-combed skirts and dresses, chic scarf tops, over-sized t-shirt tunics and phenomenal cargos, is like a launchpad for the designer’s further experiments and novel iterations of the modern woman. Accessories-wise, the drop offers wardrobe building blocks: absolutely timeless, XXL totes, heels and pumps with a retro feel, and some off-kilter jewellery: the now-viral “MUM” necklace and “Dahlia” brooch. Most of the collection is sold-out so far, even though the prices can come across as out-of-this-world expensive. But with Philo and her loyalty to uncompromising quality, I have an impression that they are to some extent honest comparing to other luxury brands. I’m already dying to see where Phoebe and her label are heading next. I haven’t been that thrilled with a fashion moment for a long while.

(Heart)Warming. Barrie AW23

October 29, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

There’s nothing as (heart)warming as cashmere knitwear. Barrie, one of Scotland’s oldest knitwear manufacturer and since 2012 a Chanel Métiers d’Art house, elevates that credo like no other brand. Conceived by artistic director Augustin Dol-Maillot, Barrie collections bring together creativity, heritage and the most thorough attention to detail. For autumn-winter 2023, the brand looks at the painterly Scottish landscapes for inspiration, as scenic as the regional weather can be challenging. Classic earthy shades are clashed with bright tones and pops of colour (that red used in the knee-socks and bonnets!) and a hint of sparkle are the key elements of the current season. The warmth of colours and textures applied in the knits provide a wardrobe for both, a Parisienne with her well-worn vintage 2.55 handbag, and an avid mushroom hunter who just loves a stylish forest gear.

Mark your calendars, as Barrie is dropping its capsule collection co-designed with Sofia Coppola on the 2nd of November… I’ve seen its preview, it’s really something to add to your festive wish-list! Here’s Margaret Qualley teasing the collection:

Wild Mustang. Jan F. Chodorowicz SS24

October 25, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jan F. Chodorowicz is one of the most exciting, emerging Polish designers right now. With every season, he evolves and expands his visual language, creating collections that orbit around the idea of functionality and utility. The sprig-summer 2024 collection is a further exploration of the codes of workwear, but through a Wild West lens. Chodorowicz focused on the analysis of the cowboy wardrobe, mining it both for its aesthetic and timelessness. Well, is there anything as timeless as the style and clothes we know from all the cowboy films? Think “Midnight Cowboy“, “Brokeback Mountain“, or the recent Almodóvar Western, “Strange Way of Life“. Chodorowicz’s vision of the contemporary cowgirl introduces several new categories for his brand like denim, printed silk and silver finishes. With the heart shape as a central motif, this collection plays with the codes of Americana in a cool, unforced way, delivering sharp clothes for a modern-day woman (who might really love riding a wild mustang).

Call For Peace. Imitation Of Christ SS24

October 24, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

Imitation Of Christ‘s Tara Subkoff created the term “up cycling” in 2000. 23 years later, it is a prevalent – and relevant – phenomenon in the fashion industry. The designer is more than fine with this; she wants others to “imitate” that sustainability-forward practice. With fashion’s ever-returning obsession with grunge and the 90’s, Imitation Of Christ’s spring-summer 2024 collection – which opened this Los Angeles Fashion Week with a dance performance including a blessing in every major world religion – convinces with gorgeous slip-dresses, DIY details and gender-blurring silhouettes. The hand-painted dove on billow-y gowns and utilitarian boiler suits is a fitting call for global peace. The symbol circles back to the spiritual side of Subkoff’s fashion performance, where the harmony of prayers and pujas created a peaceful celebration of all religions practiced alongside one another with respect and tolerance. One of the white dresses bore a quote from Ralph Waldo Emerson that read “Peace cannot be achieved through violence, it can only be attained through understanding”. As simple as that yet so hard to comprehend for the politics of this world.