Throwback Sunday – Céline Pre-Fall’10

April 2, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

When you come to a certain conclusion that her 2010 pieces for Céline would look perfect in 2017: that’s the power of Phoebe Philo‘s fashion. Those masculine, mid-lenght coats; beige cardigans with leather pockets; evening tops with feather inserts. It’s hard not to love the flared pants or this simple, little black dress styled with red tights. Pre-Fall 2010 was her third collection for the French house and it’s interesting to observe how she incorporated some of the brand’s heritage codes. The knit with a vintage automobile print used to be Céline Vipiana’s long-time signature, while the belt buckles had the brand’s old logo on them.

Throwback Sunday – Prada SS04

July 31, 2016July 28, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

#ThrowbackSunday – spring/summer 2004

“It was about tourism and craftsmanship, many things,” Miuccia Prada said of her spring-summer 2004 outing. Few years after Anthony Minghella’s cult The Talented Mr. Ripley, a sun-drenched thriller set in Italy, Prada was going straight for sunny dolce vita á la Gwyneth Paltrow’s wardrobe and Jude Law’s idyllic escapades. On-the-waist skirts printed with Mediterranean scenes, Capri pants, bathing suits, evening frocks, silk bras and tulle dresses in earthy shades of brown – did you need anything else back in 2004 for a great summer season? It’s absolutely relevant today, by the way. This is what you call an Italian luggage for true, Roman holidays.

Throwback Sunday – Jean Paul Gaultier 1994

November 22, 2015March 15, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

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#ThrobackSunday – spring / summer 1994

This show is such a fundamental base for today’s hype brands like Gypsy Sport, Eckhaus Latta and Pigalle Paris. Back in the years, Jean Paul Gaultier was a real enfant terrible of fashion. One of his first collections, Les Tatouages from 1994, is uptil today a symbol of diversity in fashion. The show was full of unexpected and bewildering references that included men in skirts, hip-hop denim volumes, Joan of Arc–style armor, tattoo trompe l’oeil tops and yes, even corsets. The bold, Indian and African tribal nods played a significant role in this fierce outing of models (for example Stella Tennant and Naomi Campbell, who back then were still the newcomers) and Gaultier’s close friends (like the eccentric and charismatic Rossy De Palma). In my opinion, this collection has not only defined the extravagant chic that Jean Paul Gaultier represents throughout his fashion career – this collection is up-to-date a loud and warm welcome to everybody who wants to be in fashion, of whatever size, skin colour or culture they are.

Jean Paul Gaultier Snake-print Mesh Top

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Jean Paul Gaultier Body Dust Asymmetric Trompe L’oeil Printed Mesh Midi Dress

Throwback Sunday – Balenciaga SS98′

November 15, 2015November 15, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

#ThrowbackSunday – spring / summer 1998

The debut collection of Nicolas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga. When the yet unknown designer came to Cristobal Balenciaga’s dusty and forgotten brand, it sold funeral clothing to Japanese licences. So, after the failure of the former creative director, Josephus Thimister, Nicolas had a field to show-off his talent. For the first collection in 1998, Ghesquiere decided to keep it mostly black, concentrating on the variety of silhouettes and sharp tailoring. Even though the collection felt very modest at the first sight, it was just a teaser of Nicolas’ prosperous and bold 15 years at Balenciaga.