Fendi celebrated its centennial in the only right way: with Silvia Venturini Fendi as the main woman at the helm. And after yesterday’s show, I hope she will stay with the brand’s womenswear for seasons to come. The collection just felt really, really good. It was chic and substantial, full of breath-taking craftsmanship and clothes (and accessories – like the netted beanies!) that are actually appealing. And there was a sense of nonchalant fun, reminiscing the spirit of Karl Lagerfeld (and something that was painfully absent throughout Kim Jones’ emotionless tenure). To mark the fact that fur, while central to Fendi, has always been just part of its offer, Venturini Fendi proposed collarless coats and dresses that featured furry facades (in either mohair or shearling) that looked like the reveres of these garments but were in fact removable stoles. Most of the spotlight-stealing fur coats were made in shearling. The red spotted dress was a particularly bravura example of this house’s craft.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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