Dream, Dream. Alberta Ferretti AW25

| Design & Culture by Ed

Lorenzo Serafini‘s debut collection for Alberta Ferretti wasn’t the loudest, but certainly was persuasive. “It is the big dreams that make people big. Small ones are desires. One should not be afraid to be ‘exaggerated’… at least in dreams.” Serafini used this beautiful Franca Sozzani quote in the notes for a show that represented, for him, the actualization of a very big dream: his new role at the Milan-based brand founded in 1981. The Sozzani factor was thanks to the late great Vogue Italia’s friendship with Ferretti, and her inspirational status for Serafini. Alongside the founder, Sozzani acted as the spiritual muse for this collection. You could actually imagine these dreamy, billow-y gowns and oversized suits on the pages of Franca’s Vogue, maybe photographed by Sarah Moon or Paolo Roversi. Serafini also delivered some of the most fascinating evening numbers we’ve seen this season – especially the unobvious-looking draped dresses that had a little of Romeo Gigli in them.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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What’s Gucci Today? Gucci AW25

| Design & Culture by Ed

Gucci‘s autumn-winter 2025 collection begs a question: do big brands need creative directors? Look at Loro Piana – it’s lead by a largely anonymous design studio, and it’s selling like hot buns. Their clients really don’t care about who’s designing what: it’s the quality that matters – and the overall image of the brand. After Sabato De Sarno’s departure from Gucci – and his very plain, very mild tenure – the brand is facing identity crisis. Should it go maximalist à la Alessandro Michele? Should it revert back to Tom Ford’s minimalist sensuality? Should it tap Hedi Slimane or an under-the-radar-name? At the moment, there’s no right answer. Even though the line-up that opened Milan Fashion Week wasn’t bad (it was way better than anything De Sarno presented), it left you with an impression of incompleteness. If not for Suzanne Koller’s masterful styling, the trendy-looking color palette, a bunch of faux-fur coats and silk slip dresses had little to say.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Naughty Boys. DsQuared2 AW25

| Design & Culture by Ed

Yesterday in Milan, Dean & Dan Caten celebrated 30 years of DsQuared2: three decades of naughty bravado, sultry hedonism and campy glamour. Their autumn-winter 2025 fashion show, which had everything from a Doechii performance to Naomi Campbell finale walk, was a glorious look-back at the Canadian brothers’ all-time favorite runway characters. There were cowboys, lumberjacks, bombshells, BDSM aficionados, high-octane starlets. It all ended with Brigitte Nielsen dressed as a police officer, arresting the Catens – who, dapper in tuxedos and towering platforms, broke free from their cuffs, kicking off a raucous after-party. Fun fact: the Dsquared2 line-up included collaborations with Magliano, Vaquera, and Bettter, all of whom were welcomed into the Catens’ archives to rework past designs. The brothers still know what’s up.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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No-Nonsense. Talia Byre AW25

| Design & Culture by Ed

If you’re looking for an absolutely great emerging brand in London, here’s a clue: it’s Talia Byre and her no-nonsense take on what IRL women want. Stunningly cut shirts that borrowed from traditional menswear silhouettes (in checks and stripes); a nylon skirt with girlish sectioned pleats; charming, wool knitwear in vibrant shades of canary-yellow and sweet-lilac. What’s not to love?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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