Burberry Pleated Checked Woven Maxi Wrap Skirt
Ulla Johnson Yves Cropped Cotton Hooded Jacket
Gucci Jordaan Horsebit-detailed Zebra-print Calf Hair Loafers
Call It By Your Name Cabas Maxi Embroidered Quilted Patchwork Printed Cotton Tote
Tom Ford Liza Silver-tone Clip Earrings
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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For some reason, you always expect a seismic shift from a debut as big as Jonathan Anderson’s first collection for Dior. Interestingly, his first line-up for Loewe – over a decade ago – was menswear too, and many people were puzzled, just like now with his take on Dior. And that’s ok.
Rewriting Dior isn’t something you can pack effortlessly into one collection. Anderson has a vision for the brand for the upcoming few seasons, and probably only when we see more of it, his debut will make more sense – when a bigger picture will take shape.
At the moment, all I see is a continuation of a Dior Men narrative that was planted by Kim Jones: British flamboyance, twisted with codes coming from Jonathan’s namesake label, JW Anderson (like those oversized, millefeuille chino shorts). There were witty references to the maison’s heritage, revived through a new lens: the “Bar” jacket was made from an Irish Donegal tweed – a matter of national pride for Anderson – which featured here and there throughout the collection. There was also an intriguing play with fashion historicism, like Louis 16th frock coat worn with ordinary cotton trousers. I will note that such brands as Marcus Allen’s The Society Archive or ERL experiment with similar vintage-vintage notions for a while now. Interestingly, the collection’s affection for flaneurism had echoes of Rei Kawakubo’s Comme Des Garçons.
I might still not understand the show’s connection with Andy Warhol (the brand released polaroids depicting his famous friends as the collection’s teaser), but I see a dialogue between two fictional man: Louis de Pointe du Lac, played by Brad Pitt in “Interview With The Vampire”, and Ennis, embodied by Heath Ledger in “Brokeback Mountain”. Dramatic, knitted capes (and of course the “Dracula” tote) and slim, brocade waistcoats created an intriguing friction with raw flannel shirts and faded denim.
Designers entering a new brand have more questions than answers – just like the spectators of their debuts. I’m not fully buying new Dior yet, but I look forward to the next pieces of the Anderson puzzle.
JW Anderson Oversized Shell Bomber Jacket
JW Anderson Men’s Straight-Leg Jeans
Christian Dior Vintage Gold-plated Bracelet
Loewe Cotton Corduroy-trimmed Checked Wool-blend Padded Jacket
Loewe Men’s High-Rise Cargo Shorts
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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At Dries Van Noten, Julian Klausner delivered a triumphant menswear debut – one so true to the brand that you can barely notice Papa Dries’ absence (he’s quietly consulting the new creative director in-between other personal projects – like renovating a palazzo in Venice).
What resonated most in Klausner’s spring-summer 2026 attempt is the actual joy of dressing up – or rather, not fearing to experiment with clothes. At first nothing seems to match in this collection, but then you see the beautiful method behind all that madness. A gorgeously tailored jacket worn with a floral sarong? Yes. Oversized grey sweatshirt topped with a handsome, embellished cummerbund? Yes. A cropped jacket in red roses styled with electric-blue biker shorts? Hell yes!
This outing offers not just great clothes, but absolutely inspiring solutions that will pimp up your summer wardrobe. I’m taking notes.
Dries Van Noten Floral-print Silk-voile Shirt
Dries Van Noten Grosgrain-trimmed Floral-print Silk-voile Wide-leg Pants
Dries Van Noten Oversized Double-breasted Linen, Wool, Silk And Cashmere-blend Blazer
Dries Van Noten Belted Double-breasted Crinkled-organza Trench Coat
Dries Van Noten Suede and Leather Trainer Sneakers
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello envisioned a Yves-kind-of man, but swiftly transferred to 1970s Fire Island. Although YSL never arrived to the homoerotic utopia, the contemporary designer certainly thinks he would love it.
You can easily imagine the slinky Saint Laurent boys in short-shorts, shoulder-padded shirts and cool, cotton-canvas blousons live through a hedonist summer in one of the Island’s wooden cabins. The sun-burnt, sea-washed color palette of canary-yellow, faded-burgundy and sumptuous ochre comes straight from Larry Stanton’s drawings and candid video footage of the queer community enjoying idyllic, hot days in the pre-AIDS days. The Parisian sensitivity of trench coats (this season much softer in cut) and just-the-right-kind-of laid-back tailoring made the collection look refined, without being overly “American”.
Anthony Vaccarello is definitely in his peak creative era at Saint Laurent. While his womenswear sometimes falls flat due to his one-theme fixations, his menswear develops an intriguing iconography of a contemporary homme who’s both chic and flamboyant. And what’s most exciting is the designer’s instinct for re-contextualisation of the YSL man, who’s one foot in Yves’ world, another – in Vaccarello’s.
Saint Laurent Men’s Dotted Crepe de Chine Dress Shirt
Saint Laurent Men’s Augustin Leather Ankle Boots
Saint Laurent Men’s Double-Pleated Baggy Pants
Saint Laurent Men’s Satin Teddy Jacket
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Design & Culture by Ed 