Milano Modernism. Tod’s AW25

Matteo Tamburini very steadily transforms Tod’s into one of the most interesting brands to observe (and buy into) in Milan. The autumn-winter 2025 show took place at PAC, the Contemporary Art Pavilion, designed in the 1950s in a modernist style. It was the perfect backdrop for the line-up that blended charismatic minimalism with the warmth of the brand’s craftsmanship know-how. “I wanted to emphasize the feel of the hand and make the surfaces eloquent,” the designer mused, explaining that he drew inspiration from the textural works of Italian artists like Carla Accardi and Lucio Fontana. Outerwear stood out in particular, with coats that were elongated, often cinched at the waist or accented with half-belts at the back. Another highlight was the slender mocha knit worn over a earthy-hued, silk pencil skirt, accessorized with a pair of olive-green gloves. Very chic, very Milano.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Enfant Terrible. Marni AW25

Francesco Risso keeps on being Milan’s enfant terrible. His Marni – especially the one we see on the runway, not necessarily in the shops – channels wild exuberance and pursuits nonchalance that feels utterly out of place in the most industrial fashion capital of them all. His artsy approach is always a moment of escapism amidst all the serious brands showing here, and this season the designer fully indulged in this sort of Little Edie mindset. But there’s a fine line between experimental bravery and looking like an art school project. This season, I didn’t entirely buy into Risso’s fussy, unflattering-looking fantasy.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Chic Wrongness. Prada AW25

The beautiful wrongness of Prada.

Messy hair (THAT autumn-winter 2009 girlie is so, so back).

Dress to big. Sack à la Cristobal.

Don’t care about the creases. Who cares about ironing? She certainly doesn’t.

Just as she doesn’t care about the norms.

Fuck the industry.

Fuck the expectations.

Challenge the (pre)conceptions of beauty.

The body is (un)seen.

In a homo-sapiens-chic faux-fur shawl.

Rough, crude leathers.

Primary instincts meet baby-doll.

We just talk about which clothes make sense now,” Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons said.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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