Soshiotsuki‘s spring-summer 2027 collection is remarkably beautiful. It also proves that Soshi Otsuki‘s repertoire extends far beyond his now-signature Japan Bubble Era-inspired tailoring. As the designer put it, “When I was young I never had a chance to go abroad and travel in European style. The collection is like a nostalgia for a memory I don’t have.” That imagined nostalgia – of a strict, office-bound father escaping to a resort somewhere in Italy – gave rise to what Otsuki described as “an intentionally undone mood.”

That sense of effortless imperfection is achieved through incredibly precise – and witty – construction. Checked shirts come with trompe l’œil patterned ties. Hidden jetted pockets tucked beneath jacket lapels let you carry your phone without disturbing the silhouette. Apparently crumpled, unpressed lapels and shirt collars are, in fact, held in place by discreet metallic fixtures. Nothing is accidental. It’s just pure genius.

Reportedly, it’s Dario Vitale who’s heading to Emporio Armani, and I love that rumored appointment. But now I’d really like to see Soshi Otsuki interact with the Giorgio Armani line, because he seems absolutely made for that job.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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