Noble Characters. Burberry AW25

Burberry felt good. Maybe it didn’t reinvent the wheel, but being conceptual was never a Burberry thing to do. Daniel Lee is starting to know what he’s doing and that showed in his best collection yet, the autumn-winter 2025 outing, riffing on the style of British aristocracy with a grain of salt. The clothes – outerwear, especially – were convincing and desirably-looking, but let’s be honest: the casting worked the hardest, and it gave the collection a sense of authentic believability. From Naomi Campbell to Jason Isaacs, you saw true characters on the runway – who happened to wear Burberry (that looked like Burberry – finally!). One thing Lee could work on is the heaviness some of his clothes are burdened with, especially the eveningwear.

ED’s SELECTION:


Burberry Embroidered Quilted Leather Ballet Flats


Burberry Wrap-effect Checked Wool Midi Skirt

Burberry Embroidered Suede Gloves


Burberry Intarsia-knit Wool Sweater


Burberry Belted Double-breasted Cotton-blend Twill Trench Coat

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

NET-A-PORTER Limited

British Classics. S.S. Daley AW25

Steven Stokey-Daley served us the great, British classics, revisited and refreshed, with good humour. Cropped trenches (Burberry could take notes). Cool pea-coats. Tailored bermudas. Full-skirts in floral prints worn with work-jackets (the look gave Frazzled English Woman energy!). And then there was Marianne Faithfull. A rendition of frilly blouse she was famously photographed wearing in the late 1960s was on the runway. A lovely chunky knit “Stay Faithfull To Marianne” was there, too. The designer was quick to make it clear he hadn’t jumped on the bandwagon of her recent passing. “Maggie Smith, Kate Bush, and Marianne Faithfull have been the three women who’ve always meant so much to me,” he said. S.S. Daley reminds us than we need London Fashion Week, even if it’s in (hopefully temporary) shambles.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

NET-A-PORTER Limited

Venus In Chaos. Dilara Findikoglu AW25

Dilara Findikoglu fired up London Fashion Week with her outing at Slimelight, the longest-running Goth nightclub in town. Lead by Lara Stone, a pack of ferociously badass women, clad in hyper-corsetry and second-skin chiffon body stockings stalked through the dark space, utterly entrancing the viewers. Entitled “Venus in Chaos”, the collection was “a divine feminine mutiny“, as the designer summed up in her press-notes. Botticelli-goth hair, a bustier covered with hundreds of shells, red velvet jackets (un)finished with punk-ish safety pins, unexpected cuts in the most “risky” places, tattered hems and ripped lace: all that created an extreme impression of total liberation from societal norms – and the pleasure of sexual self-possession. It’s easy to compare Dilara’s subversive work to John Galliano or Alexander McQueen’s, aesthetics-wise, but what makes her differ is her powerful female gaze that truly makes you believe these otherworldly women are here to break the patriarchal system.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

NET-A-PORTER Limited