Haute Consumption. Balenciaga Resort 2025

May 31, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Balenciaga went to Shanghai for resort 2025, and while looking at the show unfold on Museum of Art Pudong’s riverside pier, I couldn’t help but wonder: are the far-fetched destination cruise shows as exciting as they used to be a decade ago? The heavy rain that started pouring on the show’s evening was the actual star of the event. It brought a sense of grit and urgency to the rather very schematic Demna collection. It mostly consisted of his Balenciaga classics: all-black, all-goth apparel, a bit of bourgeoisie chic (seen through a “Shanghai noir” lens) and Cristobal Balenciaga couture riffs in the larger-than-life eveningwear. There were extreme platform “metalhead” boots, worn with overlong coats that would have dragged well along the floor if not for the extreme creepers. “I made this collection on a very instinctive level of what I like, what excites me, what creates desire in me,” he said. “Where I’m bringing Balenciaga with this show is finding a new type of balance between all these different facets of my aesthetic and style.” But isn’t that already a routine at the brand?

At least the final series of experimental semi-couture and couture dresses had something to say. They orbited around the idea of materialism and (over)consumption – ironic, noting that China has over fifty Balenciaga stores in total. A cocoon column-like dress was pieced together from travel bags, another was cut from gift packaging gold foil, and a third was made from Tyvek paper, a subtle nod to one of China’s inventions. The closing gown was constructed from a collection of pink plastic bags over a decade old, the strips cut by hand and pierced with wires to create feathers that resembled a piece from the house’s archive. While Demna’s ready-to-wear collections lag lately, I so can’t wait for his haute couture show later in the summer.

Just five Balenciaga pieces I’m obsessed with at the moment…

ED’s DISPATCH:

Balenciaga Le Cagole Boot Crinkled-leather Shoulder Bag

Balenciaga Sunday Suede Clogs

Balenciaga Oversized Wool Blazer

Balenciaga Asymmetric Draped Cape-effect Pleated Crepe Dress

Balenciaga Wrap Injection Plastic Cat-Eye Sunglasses

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Stately. Burberry Resort 2025

May 30, 2024May 30, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Daniel Lee is finally getting it right at Burberry. Resort 2025 is his best collection so far, and it seems to be a moment where the designer really knows what he wants to make out of the brand. I think he’s gradually taking a smart approach of making Burberry the British Ralph Lauren. Less superfluous runway styling, more stately clothes that are interweaved with a sense of authentic Britishness. The resort lookbook nicely co-ordinates high and low, making the checkered apparel look as good as the more daring pieces – especially all the gorgeous suede leatherwork with hand-cut florals and the furry fringes of mint-green and caramel-beige bolero jackets. The collection also offers a truly charming, cross-generational appeal. “It’s giving a modern spin on British tradition,” Lee remarked about the immaculately cut yet plain-seeming brown wool men’s blazer, worn by model Will Chalker. It’s part of Burberry’s remit to serve men’s suits; Lee smartly pushes a sense of Savile Row restraint, but not in a conservative stuffed-shirt sort of way. “It’s a modern interpretation of what you think King Charles would wear,” remarked the designer. Well, I can definitely see the King fronting Burberry’s next campaign. “Trans-seasonal, with a soft tactility” is also something Lee said about the collection. “Everything has to look good on a hanger. Worth the money. Because ultimately we’re making expensive clothes we want people to want to wear for a very long time.” The realization is that each piece has to live alone and justify its usefulness and quality, but it’s the way you put them together that creates character. You can see that when Lee styles a cargo pant with a pointy mule, and tops the look with a polished chestnut leather belted moto-jacket. Very 1990s Spice Girl. But also pieces will age well.