Butterflies In My Stomach. Undercover SS24

September 28, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jun Takahashi delivered a zsa zsa zsu – what Carrie Bradshaw calls the feeling of butterflies-in-your-stomach – moment this season. Literally. For Undercover’s finale, three models materialized out of the darkness wearing strapless dresses whose skirts seemed to light up. From a distance they looked like movie projections, but as they approached it became clear the skirts were glowing from within. Moving closer still, you saw the colorful flowers and… butterflies. Terrarium dresses are a new level of ingenious, a technical feat as well as an emotionally resonant one. Through an interpreter backstage, Takahashi shared that he was grieving for people he was close to. “He feels like he’s stuck in the world, but he wants to release himself.” The butterflies, the interpreter made sure to add, “will be freed, of course.”

Reckoning with mortality is an undercurrent of Takahashi’s shows lately. It’s said that grief doesn’t end, it only changes. That it can produce powerful work was proved today. This was Takahashi at his most focused: the leitmotif that carried from the first suit to the final terrarium dress was transparent veiling or shrouding. To start, he showed neat tailoring, the sheer materials exposing the inner construction and the items he slipped between the front and back sides, like playing cards, straight razors, and silk flowers. On a camel trench the outer layer encased a set of feathered wings. Later on came more formal suits, not see-through but swathed in more black georgette. They were as elegant as any tailoring anywhere this season, but Takahashi isn’t someone who seems to look around at what his peers are doing; for one thing, he’s too busy. Three of the looks here reproduced portraits from his first-ever oil painting exhibition, “They See More Than You Can See,” held in Tokyo earlier this month. Like the figures on his canvases, the faces on the deeply ruffled skirts had their eyes deleted, or disappeared, an eerie effect that was echoed in the other figurative pieces, which reproduced the surreally beautiful paintings of the German artist Neo Rauch. At his art show in Tokyo, Takahashi said “painting is more personal”. But this was a deeply personal show and it was a spellbinder.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Upside-Down. Dries Van noten SS24

September 28, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

“Familiar-unfamiliar and unfamiliar-familiar” was how Dries Van Noten described his starting point for spring-summer 2024. “Things that you really know but done in a completely upside-down, inside-out, special, strange way.” The Belgian designer took his all-time favorite wardrobe staples that have always been present at his brand, and looked at them through a new, twisted perspective. The collection came from traditional menswear – shirt stripes and khakis, with some denim tossed in the mix and lawn sports like tennis, cricket, and rugby. Van Noten made those familiars unfamiliar by adding a feminine touch. For the first exit, shirt stripes turned up on a bralette worn with a generously cut camel coat and knee-length shorts. On other looks, khaki cargo pants morphed into a long wrap skirt, and an enlarged schoolboy blazer was paired with a shirtdress covered in delicate see-through paillettes. Among the sports references, the rugby stripes were especially distinctive; he cut them into polo shirts that wrapped around the torso and T-shirts that slouched off one shoulder, as real as it gets but still unexpected. Backstage Van Noten said the collection was a companion piece to his men’s show in June, where he set out to redefine masculinity for a younger generation – cue the sequined basketball shorts. Women have been flirting with menswear essentials for decades, so it’s harder to surprise in this direction, but there were plenty of delights.

Spiritual. Niccolò Pasqualetti SS24

September 28, 2023September 27, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sometimes, a small, tightly-edited collection might be worth more meanings than an entire, budget-proof fashion spectacle. “In the white space, you see things for what they are, and you forget where they came from,” says the enigmatically vivid press-note for Niccolò Pasqualetti’s spring-summer 2024 collection. The white space might refer to the white cube venue the young designer chose for his fashion show in Paris. But it might also allude to a more metaphorical, imaginary space. In such a place, one thing easily changes into another. “A simple evening dress, a classic Italian suit, caught in a moment of transmutation, evaporates into a cloud. Each detail, the buttons, the zippers, the stitching are disturbed by this process. Yet still some recognizable pieces pierce through the fog, only slightly obfuscated by it.” Garment distortions are Pasqualetti’s key signatures; drawstrings, secreted in garments, are able to totally transform the silhouette. Take the free-flowing cape that cinches itself to form a column. Like protective clothing, when pulled tightly, it forms a seal with the body. These fastenings reappear, in the shoes, and in the hoods which hide within the collars of jackets. In Pasqualetti’s poetic world, there is no night and day, as everything happens at the same time. Pockets multiply across the collection giving each look a newly practical dimension regardless of the occasion. Then, laid on top of everything, silver jewellery that resembles out-of-this-world, spiritual amulets. Yes, that might the right word to describe this collection: spiritual.

Styling Samuel Drira
Photography Cécile Bortoletti
Art direction Sybille Walter
Hair Mayu Morimoto
Makeup Asami Kawai
Casting Chouaïb Arif
Words Rhys Evans

What’s Hot (28.9.23)

September 28, 2023September 24, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

Method. Saint Laurent SS24

September 27, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

The spring-summer 2024 Saint Laurent collection, presented on a marble runway against the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower last night, gave a mood. But did it deliver truly great, contemporary-looking clothes? Anthony Vaccarello has found a new formula for his job at the Parisian maison: find a theme from Yves Saint Laurent’s vast archive, refresh it for the eyes of a contemporary customer, and consistently stick to it for the entire season. This sort of repetition-technique delivers strikingly coherent collections that sell well – and give YSL’s legacy a new relevance. But I felt that something started to crack in Vaccarello’s “genius” method this season.

The new collection was inspired by pioneering women through the lens of Saint Laurent’s late 1960s Saharienne look. Vaccarello looked to the likes of Amelia Earhart and Adrienne Bolland, who infiltrated “domains once considered exclusively male.” Earhart’s influence was perhaps the most evident, with aviation themes filtering through in aviator sunglasses and head-caps. Formula 1-style racing dress also came to the fore, with utility-style jumpsuits sitting sharp on the shoulders, slouching at the leg and belted tightly at the waist for shape. As the models progressed through the stage, service jackets and cargo trousers gave way to billowing, pleated gowns, mesh tops and glittering mini dresses in khaki, beige, burgundy and deep blue. Of course, it all looked super-chic and refined on the moody runway – an entire production, actually – but in the end, I thought the clothes had a rather dated outlook at what successful, contemporary women want to dress like. I doubt they want to be invested so much in 20th century nostalgia.