Finally, a collection in New York that had a sense of tension – a spark! There was something undeniably sexy and smoky about Eckhaus Latta’s spring outing. I’ve always said that Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta would be the perfect fit for a truly successful Helmut Lang revival. They just have it in them. The collection’s second look – a black suit with a slashed belt worn by Cole Mohr – was electric in its simplicity and sensual regality. Likewise, the sleeveless black dress with a sheer skirt evoked the Yohji Yamamoto number Carolyn Bessette Kennedy adored. In fact, looking at this collection, I found myself thinking about Carolyn and John F. Kennedy Jr. – their style (a topic that will never cease to fascinate Substackers) and their passionate (and at times tumultuous) relationship. Yet alongside this unexpected elegance, the collection also embraced a more raw, straightforward take on New York sexiness, such as the abs-exposing t-shirts. Even in their most mature collection to date, Mike and Zoe never shy away from a mischievous twist.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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