Socialite. Altuzarra SS26

| Design & Culture by Ed

Altuzarra’s (very autumnal) spring–summer 2026 collection centered on charming details, executed in a surreal, trompe-l’œil manner. A stole appeared as an illustration of bird wings encircling the neckline; a blazer’s pockets were appliquéd with black and red feathers, accentuating the waist and hips; dresses were not printed but patched with florals. Yet nothing about these wardrobe enhancements felt overly on the nose. The line-up is one that New York’s Swans – socialites like C.Z. Guest or Lee Radziwill – would surely embrace for its deft balance of day-to-evening sophistication. Balloon pants, Joseph Altuzarra’s recurring obsession, returned better than ever. For several seasons now, the designer has been channeling an elegance that feels both authentic and substantial.

ED’s SELECTION:

Altuzarra Dash Pleated Cotton-twill Barrel-leg Pants


Altuzarra Maury Shearling Jacket


Altuzarra Lennon Strapless Ribbed-knit Bustier Top


Altuzarra Drina Stretch-velvet Midi Dress


Altuzarra Origami Mini Fringed Suede Shoulder Bag

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

NET-A-PORTER Limited

Faux Return. Alexander Wang SS26

| Design & Culture by Ed

I didn’t buy into the Alexander Wang show. Billed as his grand runway return after the turbulence of recent years – sexual assault allegations and all – it failed to generate any real excitement. Wang clearly aimed for a refined, demure direction reminiscent of his brief Balenciaga stint (if anyone even remembers that moment in history): ladylike dresses, business-ready tailoring, and an overall sober mood.

In effect, the collection felt entirely devoid of emotion – and not particularly elegant. The faux fur was a bit cheeky, but… aren’t we talking about a summer season? The finale looks evoked tents, for no reason. Why not revisit the essence of old Wang and create something in the airy, effortless spirit of his spring–summer 2011 collection?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

NET-A-PORTER Limited

Generic. Calvin Klein Collection SS26

| Design & Culture by Ed

New York Fashion Week is here, and I’m confused: why does generic minimalism have to dominate this city so relentlessly? Everyone wants to be the next Halston (or The Row), but in reality, it’s not as simple as it looks. As LEWIS’S wrote, minimalism is “the most difficult aesthetic to achieve” and it “demands the highest precision and a mastery of the fundamentals of design”. Contemporary New York–based designers should print these words out and pin them to their studio walls.

Especially Veronica Leoni, creative director of Calvin Klein Collection. Spring–Summer 2026 marks her sophomore season, and it falters just as much as her debut. What bothers me most is how unedited and unresolved it feels – particularly considering Leoni has the ‘luxury’ of presenting just two runway collections a year, a privilege many designers can only dream of. Her latest offering resembles COS staging runway shows: an exhaustive survey of current trends, watered down and labeled ‘minimal.’ But here’s the issue: COS is an ambitious high-street brand, while Calvin Klein Collection positions itself as a high-luxury label. At those price points, the last thing you want is a diluted mélange of Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta, Louise Trotter’s Carven, the Meiers’ Jil Sander, and even Maximilian Davis’ Ferragamo.

The only authentic moment on Leoni’s runway was the Canadian tuxedo, worn by a blond male model who could have stepped straight out of a Richard Avedon ad. That look is quintessentially Calvin Klein – but the catch is, you already find that product in the ‘mainstream’ line, where Bad Bunny and Cooper Koch flaunt their jewels. And here we hit another of Leoni’s major problems: the utter disconnect between her collection and what Calvin Klein represents to contemporary, mainstream audiences. Those logo waistbands repurposed into a faux-intrecciato dress and sunglasses do nothing to bridge the gap.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

NET-A-PORTER Limited