Marie Adam-Leenaerdt is a Demna’s Balenciaga alumni. As the former creative director of the maison is departing for Milan to lead Gucci, fans of the style so synonymous with that era can with no hesitance head to Adam-Leenaerdt’s eponymous label. Her contributions to Balenciaga, like tea-dresses, boxy envelope skirts and sharp tailoring, are now all under her name. But the designer isn’t stuck in one place – her work is continuously updated with innovative thinking about dressing. Her mathematically-precise, sophisticated autumn-winter 2025 collection, shown back in March during Paris Fashion Week, at first seemed like a Joseph Beuys tribute (coats, suits and dresses in felted gray wool, all somewhat oversized and kept in bold geometric shapes). When the models came back around again, they had added a top layer to the garments, sort of like slipcovers for furniture (hence the show’s location in a home furnishings gallery). A coat was enlivened with a leopard print shell, a Margiela-ist triangle skirt got an electric blue gloss, and a super-chic mini shift became a trompe l’oeil cardigan coat in the vein of Coco Chanel. Marie Adam-Leenaerdt champions clothes that aren’t only modern-looking, but are also intelligent.

ED’s SELECTION:

Marie Adam-Leenaerdt Oversized Scarf-detailed Gathered Wool Cardigan

Marie Adam-Leenaerdt Double-breasted Wool-twill Blazer

Marie Adam-Leenaerdt Bow-embellished Leather Slippers

Marie Adam-Leenaerdt Checked Wool Midi Skirt

Marie Adam-Leenaerdt Lace-trimmed Satin Blouse

Marie Adam-Leenaerdt Gathered Cotton-jersey Midi Dress

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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