DACBE’s Most Viewed / 2014

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With what were you most amused this year? Most interested? Editorials, collections, interviews, trend reports, events… The stats say the truth- here is Design & Culture by Eds rank of the most viewed stories during 2014. Trust me, there was A LOT reading and discovering. Here, you can find my original texts.

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1. Edie Campbell in W Magazine’s controvertial editorial in Myanmar. Publication: W Magazine May 2014
 Model: Edie Campbell 
Photographer: Tim Walker Fashion Editor: Jacob K

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2. Trend Report SS14. Definitely, November is the right time to get to know closer the hottest trends from SS14 runways. In this exclusive guide to the new season, you will find lots of inspirations, new designers and the most coolest styles and looks of Summer 2014. From the gold skirts to net tops, and from tribal inspirations to modern art, there is no way to miss this amazing season!

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3. Victoria Beckham X Mytheresa event I was invited to. On the 15th of November, at the Theresa store on Maffeistraße 3 in Munich, a very special and one-in-a-kind event took place. While I was arriving to the store, a big mass of people stood there, with cameras and phones. Then I thought, that this is something really big. After a stare of people around me, I entered the warm place, where labels like Celine, Saint Laurent or Dries Van Noten got their hangers on. The event was happening on the second floor, so when I went upstairs, I was pleasantly surprised… The atmospheric music was on, Veuve Clicquot was poured into the champagne glasses and white roses mixed with Diptyque candle aroma gave an delicate, but refreshing scent around the space.
Excited, I didn’t know at what should I be concentrated first- at the amazing dresses, guest’s outfits or chatting with others about the event… Then I saw Justin O’Shea, the main shopper for Mytheresa, whose style is my favourite to watch during the fashion weeks! After having a small talk with him about the whole party, the most expected moment came- the biggest star of the evening arrived! Her fragile and as always chic posture moved promptly into the centre of the room. Yes, that was Victoria Beckham. Full of grace, wearing a coat from her new collection and killer-heels on, Victoria was at Mytheresa and hosted the party. Taking mine place in the front row (believe me, seeing your name in then front row is a mind-blowing experience!) the show started. As I discovered from Justin, the whole trunk-show was about Beckham’s first ever Resort collection. So, while the models wore all these super sexy and full of colour dresses and coats for Spring, Victoria was telling about her inspirations, occasions for wearing these treasures and the way she styles them . And the best thing was, that Victoria commented at these in such a humorous way, that she immediately made the atmosphere warm and friendly! All the models looked beautifully, just as the outfits they had on! When the show ended, there was a time for having a short Hello with Victoria Beckham, and a photo taken with her. I was quite shocked, so I just could say “I am happy to meet you” to her, but thankfully Victoria supported me with an answer back and a little hug… After this short meeting with the designer, there was a time to try the dresses from the main line, Victoria by Victoria Beckham and Denim from the Resort 2014 collection, plus seeing up close the stylish totes and mirror clutches. The detailing was really impressive, just as the quality of fabrics- very soft and stretchy. I really fell in love with everything that was orange- this energetic colour looked even more fun in Victoria edition. The classical bags from the main line are already iconic for their delicate leather and minimalistic forms, while the exclusive Mytheresa box-clutches with metallic reflections and custom leather details on, surely will be soon the new bestsellers!

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4. Kenyan Cool: Karen Walker’s eyewear campaign. Karen Walker did the most outstanding campaign of SS14 campaigns. The Visible Collection was inspired and styled by Kenyan artisans. What’s best, the eyewear is presented not on typical models, but on local, Kenyan people who really know how to wear these glasses… Matched with braids, African jewellery and colourful attitude, the collection’s sale will go on Kenyan fundaution that will help improve the schools and things needed there. I simply can’t get enough of this.

Slide065. Charlotte Gainsbourg starring in Louis Vuitton campaign. Nicolas Ghesquiere didn’t dissapoint us- his first ever campaign for AW14 is perfection for Louis Vuitton. It’s done by three major photographers: Bruce Weber, Annie Leibovitz and Juergen Teller! The whole campaign is entitled SERIES 1… and it’s starred by Charlotte Gainsbourg. The short film illustrates not only the essence of the collection, but the wearability of Ghesquiere’s first garments for the house.

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6. Trend Report SS15. Summer is the time when we loose our self to the beach, sun, parties. And it also bring the new tendencies to fashion. The SS15 season is simply full of bright, chic ideas- with Seventies influences from Saturday night fever to hippy deluxe, a khaki nod to military style alongside nautical accents, experiments with transparency, patchworks of vintage prints and a mix & match approach to volume and fabric, for summer 2015 we’re set to see contrast take center stage. It’s a storm of ideas this season.

Slide087. Vetements. Demna Gvasalia, the alum of Maison Martin Margiela, presented his second season of Vetements, a new, eponymous label. And the collection he and his mates produced for their first-ever show made a solid case for spontaneous style. A game with volumes lenghts was the big thing. This elusive, slightly eerie mood of Margiela was also all around the clothes… here is my favourite look from the SS15 show. I don’t know why, but these sleeves and shoes and the non-chalant belt really hit me during the Parisian fashion week.

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8. Interview with Reed Anderson. While seeking talented fashion designers and artists on the social platform, Instagram, I discovered Reed Anderson (@iamreed), who is creating unique artworks in Brooklyn, New York. His practice draws from a background of printmaking and cultural arts, creating an interesting mix of modern fantasies, making you imagine what you feel like. The heart of Reed’s current body of work uses large pieces of intricately cut paper as a stencil, which is folded and painted upon itself multiple times to create an image. Paper that has been cut out of these drawings are further embellished and collaged into the larger drawing, while smaller artworks arise from “detritus” printed elsewhere while working. More on designandculturebyed.com/2014/04/16/interview-with-reed-anderson/

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9. Saint Laurent Men’s SS15. Hedi Slimane of Saint Laurent always keeps his own style in his designs. And not many designer do that nowadays. The men’s SS15 entitled Psych Rock was all about Hedi’s love to rock & roll. Little Bugle Boy jacket, poncho, sheepskin vest, army surplus, embroidered jeans, amulets, snakeskin boots, garage band—rather than an unleashing of the beast of psych rock. The collection had something of beautiful gypsy escape (all these jewels) vibe, the indie rock chic and itty-bitty rodeo style (the soundtrack is a contribution from an obscure West Coast sixties-revivalist band, the wide-hatted Mystic Braves were an aural and visual complement to the new collection). I really enjoyed the whole show (and women’s was so, so good. Natalie Westling and her hot red hair combined with a black maxi dress and star sequined boots are dreamy) and I am happy we’ve got Hedi at Saint Laurent.

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10. Celine Pre-Fall 2014. Aah, Phoebe. You did this again. Your Pre-Fall 2014 for Celine is perfect. And, exclusively at Design & Culture by Ed, you can see the whole collection and new bags, as it’s first here! The collection is amazingly simple about concepts- sweaters tied around the waist, masculine white shirt with a coat and the blue plisse skirt are my favourites. The checked dresses are worn with fur stoles, while shoes are style with long, black socks. And to my surprise, the bags are… perfectly same. But in different, lovely colours. The Mini Luggage and Trapeze are here, but kept in pink and bordeaux. This Pre-Fall’14 collection is really great in my opinion! Art by Cy Twombly.

Nicolas Ghesquiere / Advent 2014

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December 24: Merry Christmas everyone! The wait is over- the first day of Christmas starts now. And if talking of fashion, out of 24 people who stole my heart this year, Nicolas Ghesquiere of Louis Vuitton wins the game. Since his first collection for LV, Nicolas brings chic, travel-inspired and aesthetical view to the Parisian house. With his friends like Marie Amelie Sauve or Pelayo Diaz, Nicolas Ghesquiere makes the Parisian fashion weeks anticipated more than ever! Specially for this occasion, lets shortly review what his 2014 looked like.

Vogue Paris - Septembre 2014

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Dear reader of Design & Culture by Ed… I am so happy you are always here, with me! I wish you a very relaxing, stylish and beautiful Christmas eve & party with your family and friends. Merry Christmas!

Phoebe Philo / Advent 2014

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December 23: Phoebe Philo is the woman who knows what women want. And women approve.

Sophie Hicks, architect –  The clothes are not tricky and they are never vulgar. If you want to feel right in your clothes and you don’t want to show off, or show your wealth, then you wear Celine by Phoebe.

Sadie Coles, gallerist – I’m particularly fond of anything that apes men’s wear and Celine comes the closest with its craftsmanship. They have a deep affinity with that feeling of luxury within materials. Wearing Celine is like driving a very, very expensive car.

Camilla Nickerson, editor – She understands how a working mom and a woman in today’s world needs to move and get through her day. She also can easily absorb and translate the culture. So her clothes make you feel connected to what it is to be in today’s world.

Rochas / Advent 2014

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December 22: Alessandro Dell’Acqua had a busy and fruity year- he made his own label, N.21, the tt-label of every Milan women, and re-invented Rochas, the old couture brand from Paris. He brought chic, beautiful embellishments and fresh silhouettes to the house, creating a wardrobe for lady-like, bold characters. Rochas is not only a go-to for New Year Eve, but for every other event.

Marques Almeida / Advent 2014

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December 19: Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida are a lovely couple which makes the most eccentric denim (and not only) fashion in the world. Playing with volumes, colours and vibes, since the beginning Marques Almeida has been acclaimed by fashion editors as the new “go-to” brand of the year. My favourite thing that they did for 2014, was their crazy, very strong AW14 collection, where the designers had fun with fur stoles! Marta and Paulo also created a “spark”, making their signature fabric get really important on the London fashion scene.