American Hustle. Acne SS15

September 30, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Hustle, hustle honey! It’s Acne for SS15, and we’got a big hustler thing going on. Rap gold chains, shiny aviator glasses, 70’s wide trousers and sexy V-necks are just few things that felt super hot. Green, yellow, beige, red… all of that was here, making the collection looking IT. Backstage Johansson said he’s been captivated lately by young people’s affection for and appropriation of luxury goods, the implication in the statement being that the phenomenon isn’t an experience he remembers from his own Swedish youth. But was he endorsing the current situation or poking fun at it? It wasn’t always clear. In the case of a strapless minidress made from a teal green terry cloth towel—spa day!—it seemed like Johansson was taking the piss.

Nature Moment. Dries Van Noten SS15

September 25, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Dries Van Noten possibly stole the day with his wonderful show yesterday. First of all, the 50m long carpet weaved three months in Argentina, which really looked and felt like moss. Then, the new mood, which feels like the quintessence of the next season- the 70’s and hippie style. We saw them like everywhere- Victoria Beckham, Prada, Derek Lam… but nobody really showed it in a real, original way. But the master of florals, Dries did. His summer woman loves nature, doesn’t care about rules, and mixes the prints the way she wants… showing some nudity. A splash of stripes, oriental embroideries, crotchet, fur, brocade, zig-zags and many more was the big thing. In other words, the hippie chic, where prints take the role, ruled.

Aah… and everything styled with sandals. The trousers were slouchy, the blazers were like whatever. The sheer beauty of Dries Van Noten’s Spring collection was inspired by John Everett Millais’ Ophelia, the Pre-Raphaelite image that launched a million hippie fantasies. In the painting, Ophelia floats dreamily in a magical woodland setting. And when the models had their final walk, everybody was totally relaxed- in a lazy way, the girls sat down on the “moss” having a nap. I think, we need to go to the forest, then. I am truely moved and in love. Thanks, Dries.

70’s Suits Come Back

August 13, 2014August 23, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marni

There are these awkward fashion moments, when ugly and kitsch things come back with a huge boom. Like for example the printed, colourful, so-70’s suits. Covered with flowers, veggies, twirls and other super optimistic patterns, the nightmare of kitsch appears more than once for Resort 2015. The kaleidoscope of loud, proud, floral and psychedelic print pantsuits by Miu Miu, Marni, Louis Vuitton and Mary Katrantzou will try to encourage us, to wear these the next spring. For now, I feel a bit scared. But we must be all brave.

Mary Katrantzou

Louis Vuitton

Miu Miu

Remix. Prada AW14

February 22, 2014September 25, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Prada AW14 collection was a real example of avant-garde fashion. With Barbara Sukova’s life performance accompanied by real orchestra as a show tune, collection was presented in a dark Milanese garage… And, possibly, that was one of the most wearable collections for season at Prada. The colour palette and prints shouting loud 30’s & 70’s, amazing monkey fur dress which looked like a ‘body, chained shoulder bags, architectonic heels and heavy sweaters worn over flawless sheer skirts look fantastic. Miuccia Prada is on the concept of timeless, but artsy clothing, that will never be out of fashion. In reality, these clothes will always look good and luxury! Opposing the colourful SS14, this collection in result became a little bit more toned, darker. But coming back to basics is never a bad idea. And if it is Miuccia who “rules the rules”- then nobody can say “no”.

Men’s: Mid-70’s. Prada AW14

January 12, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Located in an underground garage or passage in the centre of Milan, the AW14 Menswear show of Prada just took place. Miuccia Prada as always did a good job. But, she didn’t out-stand herself unfortunately. The collection was combined with women’s Pre-Fall’14 pieces that really supported menswear. The man clothes were too “not” neat- 70’s inspired oversized trousers, unitarian vests, shubby fur coats and horrible colours of brown were present here. But women part was amazing! Bright coloured leather dresses? Totally fine. Sexy femme fatale blouses worn with fur scarves? Indeed. In other words, Miuccia tried something new (well, not literally new but more… forgotten?) in men fashion, but for me it didn’t go well. But for women (the models- Amanda Murphy, Jamie Bochert… gosh!) she created new timeless classics that will need to have place in every woman’s classy wardrobe.