A.F. Vandevorst

My favourite Belgian label, A.F. Vandevorst, has just shown a magical collection. Keeping it a bit military, the designer couple introduced beautiful silhouttes and fabric. An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx had come up with a story, about a female pilot flying around the world who parachutes into terra incognita and begins exploring. Which is to say, Vandevorst and Arickx were riffing on parachutes and flight suits, a theme sledgehammered home by the rather extraordinary opening gown of what looked like parachute silk, with a train nearly the length of the runway. The models wore non-chalant gowns, wrapped jackets, red suits, very “natural” head covers and feather embroideries. And these ones were reall amazing. A.F. Vandevorst decorated the whole gown with feathers, making it look couture. But the simple shape of it made it feel (and look) very comfortable. Amazing.

A.F. Vandevorst is a brand I knew before, but I have never been too interested in it. Until I visited Belgium. First of all, you need to know these two simple equation: A.F. = Filip Arickx, while Vandevorst = Ann Vandevorst. And these two are quiet, cool couple, which created a Belgian, red-crossed brand which may be easily spotted thanks to it’s characteristics. Over the years, the duo’s influences have ranged from S&M-tinged clinical uniforms (such as the SS 2007 nun habits, SS 2008 PVC trenchcoats, FW 2014 army cargo, and their signature red cross logo) to German artists such as Joseph Beuys and choreographer Pina Bausch, and a week spent with the Samburu tribe in Kenya (SS 2012). Looking at their archives, I am impressed- the brand is so sophisticated and interesting. But it always keeps it’s specific, dark-romance style.