American Hustle. Acne SS15

September 30, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Hustle, hustle honey! It’s Acne for SS15, and we’got a big hustler thing going on. Rap gold chains, shiny aviator glasses, 70’s wide trousers and sexy V-necks are just few things that felt super hot. Green, yellow, beige, red… all of that was here, making the collection looking IT. Backstage Johansson said he’s been captivated lately by young people’s affection for and appropriation of luxury goods, the implication in the statement being that the phenomenon isn’t an experience he remembers from his own Swedish youth. But was he endorsing the current situation or poking fun at it? It wasn’t always clear. In the case of a strapless minidress made from a teal green terry cloth towel—spa day!—it seemed like Johansson was taking the piss.

The Best of AW14

September 1, 2014September 1, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

My number one this season is Haider Ackermann. His beautiful fall was dark, elusive and very Parisienne. Models wore masculine coats and trousers, slim maxi dresses, over-sized shirts and leather jackets. This collection is the quintessence of chic.

Celine had the cool non-chalance in it. Phoebe Philo brought us fur muffs, kimonos, over-sized tunics and sleek coats, making the collection extremely casual with these fabulous, patent leather clogs. As usually, it’s one of my favourites.

Tibi from New York had the best ponchos of the season! Styled with black mules, Amish hats and black midi skirt, the label had one of the most great looks in the whole season. And many other pieces are still having a spotlight…

Dries Van Noten was all about stripes, colour and florals. It had a lot of coolness in it- a midi skirt worn with a orange skirt was never so interesting and sophisticated!

Miuccia Prada as usually brought Prada the most outstanding pieces of the season. Shearling jackets, cricket v-neck sweaters, Bauhaus inspired heels, monkey fur dress, bags with chains… and many, many more.

I have a special place in my heart for that Acne collection. It’s fresh, Scandinavian vibe and tribal printed culottes are simply amazing. And of course the exaggerated hats! You want get a cold wearing one of them, that’s a sure thing!

Louis Vuitton has Nicolas Ghesquiere right now, and his debutant collection was simply it. 40’s & 60’s fashion come back with huge steps. And all these boots are a must-have, just like the Petit Malle clutches.

Yohji Yamamoto’s winter collection is the most unwearable and most fantastic of all. The cocoon coats with those hand painted manga illustration are not clothes any more, but art.

N.21 by Allesandro Dell Acqua was very Italian. It has three key pieces- a cozy, wool sweater, an embroidered, midi skirt and pointy polished flats. And nothing else.

The relaxed Marc Jacobs collection was my favourite from New York. It was all head in clouds, with these pastel colours, v-cuts, solemn and pale faces of models and Jessica Lange attitude.

These were my 10 favourite AW14 collections… and on the 4th, officially, the NYFW starts with SS15! Yay!

Acne’s Balto Slippers

August 15, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

One thing counts most on my Fall wishlist – the Acne Studios balto slippers made of lambskin fur with a thick, rubber lug sole. These super normcore shoes are going to be perfect for cold snowy days and cozy evenings in front of the fireplace. They are available in brown and black colour, and are totally unisex… the photo above is from Mohawk General Store in Pasadena.

Acne Dibs

July 25, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Acne’s AW14 is a collection, which you must understand. The Ikea like printed textiles, psychodelic patterns, wooden “masai-like” plate necklaces, simple, pastel colours… we our somewhere between minimalistic Scandinavia and tribal Africa. Initial and final reaction? A dynamic burst of contrasting prints and unconventionally structured garments, with underlying elements of sportswear innovation. And the unexpected headwear… ann abstract take on the timeless bobble hat, fabricated in duck-egg blue tweed, charcoal fur, caramel felt and rough silvery grey wool. They were worn oversized, leaving half of each models face peeping through. I feel this collection well- one of the strongest by Acne Studios! Photos by Lea Colombo.

Pop-It. Acne Pre-Fall’14

January 9, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Pre-Fall gets knocked as the most purely commercial season. But commercial needn’t mean boring, as Acne’s Jonny Johansson understands. “There was something earthy, in the most literal sense, about the way the designer mingled the textures of Persian lamb and felted or boiled wool with slick silk, leather, and neoprene; meanwhile, numerous wrapped, draped, and folded wool pieces looked like they’d been riffed off of beach blankets, the kind you wrap up in for a walk along the shore on a brisk day.” Certainly, this collection is cool.